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24D-001 (12) 253 PROSPECT ST BP-2017-0537 GIS e: COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS Map:Block:24D-001 CITY OF NORTHAMPTON Lot: -001 PERSONS CONTRACTING WITH UNREGISTERED CONTRACTORS Permit: Building DO NOT HAVE ACCESS TO THE GUARANTY FUND (MGL c.142A) Category: GREENHOUSE BUILDING PERMIT Permit# BP-2017-0537 Project# JS-2017-000873 Est.Cost:$10000.00 Fee: 586.00 PERMISSION IS HEREBY GRANTED TO: Const. Class: Contractor: License: Use Group: STEPHEN YOSHEN 88490 Lot Size(sq. ft.): 154638.00 Owner: B'NAI ISRAEL CONGREGATIONAL Zoning: URB(100)/ Applicant: STEPHEN YOSHEN AT: 253 PROSPECT ST Applicant Address: Phone: Insurance: P 0 BOX 41 (413) 695-7801 () CUMM I NGTONMA01026 ISSUED ON:10/24/2016 0:00:00 TO PERFORM THE FOLLOWING WORK:GREENHOUSE POST THIS CARD SO IT IS VISIBLE FROM THE STREET Inspector of Plumbing Inspector of Wiring D.P.W. Building Inspector Underground: Service: Meter: Footings: Rough: Rough: House Foundation: Driveway Final: Final: Final: Rough Frame: Gas: Fire Department Fireplace/Chimney: Rough: Oil: Insulation: Final: Smoke: Final: THIS PERMIT MAY BE REVOKED BY THE CITY OF NORTHAMPTON UPON VIOLATION OF ANY OF ITS RULES AND REGULATIONS. Certificate of Occupancy Signature: FeeTvpe: - Date Paid: Amount: Building 10/24/2016 0:00:00 $86.00 212 Main Street, Phone(413)587-1240, Fax:(413)587-1272 Louis Hasbrouck—Building Commissioner File# BP-2017-0537 �(� QAC. APPLICANT/CONTACT PERSON STEPHEN YOSHEN ADDRESS/PHONE P O BOX 41 CUMMINGTON (413)695-7801 0 PROPERTY LOCATION 253 PROSPECT ST MAP 240 PARCEL 001 001 ZONE URB(100P/ THIS SECTION FOR OFFICIAL USE ONLY: PERMIT APPLICATION CHECKLIST ENCLOSED REQUIRED DATE ZONING FORM FILLED OUT Fee Paid l(/ Building Permit Filled out 1 Fee Pnid!^ Typec Construction; GREE OUSE New Construction Non Structural interior renovations Addition to Existing Accessory Structure Building Plans Included: Owner/Statement or License 58490 3 sets of Plans/Plot Plan THE FOLLOWING ACTION HAS BEEN TAKEN ON THIS APPLICATION BASED ON INF¢RMATION PRESENTED: IV ApprovedAdditional permits required(see below) PLANNING BOARD PERMIT REQUIRED UNDER:* Intermediate Project: Site Plan AND/OR Special Permit With Site Plan Major Project: Site Plan AND/OR Special Permit With Site Plan ZONING BOARD PERMIT REQUIRED UNDER: § Special Finding 5 clal PermitVariance* Received& Recorded at Registry of Deeds Proof Enclosed Other Permits Required: Curb Cut from DPW Water Availability Sewer Availability Septic Approval Board of Health Well Water Potability Board of Health Permit from Conservation Commission Permit front CB Architecture Committee Permit from Elm Street Co o' - PPW Storm Water Manageme�it Demolition Delay flie .4.77 /07• O IofuJi Signature of Building 0 ficial Date Note: Issuance of a Zoning permit does not relieve a applicant's burden to comply with all zoning requirements and obtain all required permits from Board of Health,Conservation Commission, Department of public works and other applicable permit granting authorities. *Variances are granted only to those applicants who meet the strict standards of MGL 40A. Contact Office of Planning&Development for more information. ^ _ Version1.7 Commercial Building Permit May 15,2000 City of Northampton S $[s of r ^* a - Building Department Cur`A;� ` " *kr ,,I 0 212 Main Street � � * § +my ` Room 100 '` ,+ U'; ,� Northampton, MA 01060 '` ' A + 444: ,13.ii_...- 413-587-1240 Fax 413-587-1272 /a+ a*a + 3^ ^L APPLICATION TO CONSTRUCT,REPAIR,RENOVATE,CHANGE THE USE OR OCCUPANCY OF,OR DEMOLISH ANY BUILDING OTHER THAN A ONE OR TWO FAMILY DWELLING SECTION 1 •SITE INFORMATION t.t Property Address: This section to be completed by office 253 Prospect Street Map Lot Unit Northampton, MA 01060 Zone Overlay District Elm St District CB District SECTION 2-PROPERTY OWNERSHIP/AUTHORIZED AGENT LI Owner of Record: Congregation B'nai Israel 253 Prospect Street, Northampton, MA 01060 Name(Print) _ to c U P`-'tFn MArd. Current Mailing Address et' (413)586-3593 i 1---------eTesphme ... _ .2 Au hinted Agent: Name(Ptln���q''''`` \ Cnu*ent Darling Address: _._... . _. 6 aY'YliAMP • Telephone SECTION 3•ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION COSTS Item Estimated Cost(Dollars)to be Official Use Only completed by permit applicant 1 Building $10,000.00 (a)Building Permit Fee 2. Electrical $0 00 (b)Estimated Total Cost of Construction from ter . _ __...__.. 3. Plumbing $0.00 Building Permit Fee 4. Mechanical(HVAC) $0.00 5. Fire Protection _ - j{�^�� --- 6. Total=(1 +2+3+4+5) Check Number 707'W .� ,_ This Section For Official Use Only Building Permit Number Date Issued Signature I I BuBdng Commissrorertlnspector of Braidings Date Versions.7 Commercial Building Permit May I5,2000 SECTION 4-CONSTRUCTION SERVICES FOR PROJECTS LESS THAN 35,000 CUBIC FEET OF ENCLOSED SPACE Interior Alterations 0 Existing Wall Signs 0 Demolition 0 Repairs 0 Additions 0 Accessory Build#ng❑ Exterior Alteration ❑ Existing Ground Sign 0 New Signs 0 Roofing Change of Use Other Brief Description Enter a brief description here. Of Proposed Work: (f GCYx- Gyfj;ja.t... SECTION 6-USE GROUP AND CONSTRUCTION TYPE USE GROUP(Check as applicable) CONSTRUCTION TYPE A Assembly ❑ A-1 0 A-2 0 A-3 ❑ IA ❑ A-4 0 A-S 0 16 ❑ B Business ❑ 2A ❑ E Educational 0 28 I ❑ F Factory 0 F-1 0 F-2 0 20 0 H High Hazard 0 3A ❑ I Institutional ❑ I-1 ❑ 1-2 0 I-3 0 38 ❑ M Mercantile ❑ 4 ❑ R Residential 0 R-1 0 R-2 0 R-3 0 5A 0 S Storage ❑ S-1 0 S-2 0 _— Se I ❑ U Utility ❑ Specify M Mixed Use 0 Specify: . S Special Use ❑ Specify. . COMPLETE THIS SECTION IF EXISTING BUILDING UNDERGOING RENOVATIONS,ADDITIONS AND/OR CHANGE IN USE Existing Use Group: Proposed Use Group: _ . Existing Hazard Index 780 CMR 347 __. Proposed Hazard Index 780 CMR 34): SECTION 6 BUILDING HEIGHT AND AREA BUILDING AREA EXISTING PROPOSED NEW CONSTRUCTION OFFICE USE ONLY Floor Area per Floor(sf) 1et 432 Total Area(st) Total Proposed New Construction(af) 432 Total Height(ft) Total Height ft 10 7.Water Supply(M.G.L.c.40,§54) 7.1 Flood Zone Information: 7.3 Sewage Disposal System: Public 0 Private 0 Zone Outside Flood Zone❑ Municipal 0 On site disposal system Versioni.2 Commercial Building Permit May 15,2000 8. NORTHAMPTON ZONING 4 see p\of Oar) ) Existing Proposed Required by Zoning This column to be filled in by eutidtng Department Lot Size _ . ... . . . . . Frontage ... . _ _. Setbacks Front Side L: R: - L: It: $gp+ Building Height — - Bldg.Square Footage % I _ Open Space Footage . (Lot area minus bltg&paved _. parking) #of Parking Spaces Fill: (volume&Location) . __._ . _ A. Has a Special Permit/Variance/Finding ever been issued for/on the site? NO Q DONT KNOW O YES 0 IF YES, date issued: IF YES: Was the permit recorded at the Registry of Deeds? NO 0 DONT KNOW 0 YES Q IF YES: enter Book Page and/or Document if B. Does the site contain a brook, body of water or wetlands? NO CI DONT KNOW Q YES Q IF YES, has a permit been or need to be obtained from the Conservation Commission? Needs to be obtained O Obtained (D , Date Issued: C. Do any signs exist on the property? YES O NO Q IF YES, describe size, type and location: Entry sign at driveway D. Are there any proposed changes to or additions of signs intended for the property? YES O NO 0 IF YES, describe size, type and location: • E. Will the construction activity disturb/clearing,grading,excavation,or filling)over I acre or is it part of a common plan that will disturb over 1 acre? YES Q NO 0 IF YES.then a Northampton Storm Water Management Permit from the DPW iS required. Versionl1 Commercial Budding Permit May 15,2000 SECTION S-PROFESSIONAL DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION SERVICES-FOR BUILDINGS AND STRUCTURES SUBJECT TO CONSTRUCTION CONTROL PURSUANT TO 780 CMR 116(CONTAINING MORE THAN 35,000 C.F.OF ENCLOSED SPACE) 9.1 Registered Architect: Not Applicable 0 Name(Registrant): Registration Number Address.. Expiration Date Signature Telephone 9.2 Registered Professional Engineer{s): Name Area of Responsibility Address Registration Number Signature Telephone Expiration Date Name _ Area of Responsibility Address Registration Number Signature — Telephone Expiration Date Name Area of ftasponsi4iNty Address Registration Number Signature Telephone Expretion Date Name Area of Responsibility Address Registration Number Signature Telephone Expiration Date 93 General Contractor .. . _ . .._ Not Applicable Company Name: Responsible In Charge of Construction Address Signature Telephone Version I.7 Commercial Building Permit May IS, 2000 SECTION 10-STRUCTURAL PEER REVIEW(780 CMR 110.11) 1 Independent Structural Engineering Structural Peer Review Required Yes O No 0 SECTION 11-OWNER AUTHORIZATION-TO BE COMPLETED WHEN OWNERS AGENT OR CONTRACTOR APPLIES FOR BUILDING PERMIT ,as Owner of the subject property hereby authorize _.. .. .__ _ to act on my behalf,in alt matters relative to work authorized by this building permit application. Signature of Owner Date I, -A 6/1 r_vidq ��qr/ __ . . .. . as Owner/Authorized Agent hereby declare that the statements and information on the foregoing application are true and accurate,to the best of my knowledge and belief Signed under the pains and penalties of ni pertu Print N- e , AMASS 0 . T .gnat - of Owner/Agent D-- SECTION 12•CONSTRUCTION SERVICES 10.1 Licensed Construction Su`perrvisor::_ \' Not /Applicable p t❑2 p Name of Ucense Holder _r." -t_ ,OSh� I .. . ..CS—DVV 4 I 0 .. License 35 Ebjont_CA r (ah Mtn le 1 D�t79- Address Ad cess /" yam([ F Expiration Date • Signature ~ ��e�/'h{J `7 1 `i 1.�1 SECTION 13-WORKERS' t.. PENSATION INSURANCE AFFIDAVIT(M-01-c.152,§250(6)) Workers Compensation Insurance affidavit must be completed and submitted with this application. Failure to provide this affidavit will result in the denial of the issuance of the building permit. Signed Affidavit Attached Yes 0 No 0 City of Northampton 212 Main Street, Northampton, MA 01060 Solid Waste Disposal Affidavit In accordance of the provisions of MGL c 40, S54, I acknowledge that as a condition of the building permit all debris resulting from the construction activity governed by this Building Permit shall be disposed of in a properly licensed solid waste disposal facility, as defined by MGL c 111, S 150k Address of the work: -D59.) F cctecc t- JA The debris will be transported by: \kizs nnhcc ,AF S-SSAAMS J The debris will be received by: lc\\ c.„: 00.-\\\;k_ 1 e �,e Building permit number: Name of Permit Applicant C,.ccrr fjc\-‘0,- ?z;nc \Sccie\ 7°A _ Date Signature of Permit Applicant The Commonwealth of Massachusetts ,.� Department of Industrial Accidents Office of Investigations 7-31i1v ') 1 Congress Street,Suite 100 Boston, M4 02114-2017 "'=^ www.mass.gov/dia Workers' Compensation Insurance Affidavit: Builders/Contractors/Electricians/Plumbers Applicant Information Please Print Legibly Name(Bussiness/Organizatiom7ndividual): Address: - .. I* Qtr.. . v _ 710 City/State/Zip: ryt S < i 4 Phone Are you an employer?Check the app I prit e box: 4. I am a general contractor and 1 Type ofprojectconstructiont(required): I.❑ I am a employer with ❑ employees (full and/or part-time). have hired the sub-contractors 6. New❑ Lig I am a sok proprietor or partner- listed on the attached sheet. 7. ❑Remodeling ship and have no employees These sub-contractors have 8, El Demolition working for me in any capacity, employees and have workers' [No workers' comp. insurance comp. insurance.: 9. ❑ Building addition required.] 5. ❑ We are a corporation and its 10.0 Electrical repairs or additions 3.❑ I am a homeowner doing all work officers have exercised their 1 L❑Plumbing repairs or additions myself [No workers' comp. right of exemption per MGL l2.❑ Roof repairs insurance required.] t c. 152, §1(4),and we have no employees. [No workers' 13.0 Other comp.insurance required.] *Any applicant that checks box#1 must also flit nut the section below showing their workers'compensation policy information_ Homeowners who submit this affidavit indicating they are doing all work and then hire outside contractors must submit a new affidavit indicating such. tContracton that check this box must attached an additional sheet showing the name of the submontractors and scale whether or not those entities have employees. If the sub-contractors have employees,they must provide their workers'comp.policy number. tarn an employer that is providingworkers'compensation insurance or myemployees. Below is the policyand'ah site mF I J information. Insurance Company Name: _ Policy e or Self-ins. Lie,#: Expiration Date: _ Job Site Address: City/State/Zip: Attach a copy of the workers' compensation policy declaration page(showing the policy number and expiration date). Failure to secure coverage as required under Section 25A of MGT c. 152 can lead to the imposition of criminal penalties of a fine up to SI,500.00 and-or one-year imprisonment,as well as civil penalties in the form ofa STOP WORK ORDER and a fine of up to$250.00 a day against the violator. Be advised that a copy of this statement may be forwarded to the Office of Investigations of the DIA for insurance coverage verification. f do hereby cert; u der Y'a pal, a pe ties ofperjury that Nue information provided a(pre is trrpe and correct. Siepamre' �w ../x' Date: c7!2& I 1 b Phone#: 1-7/77 q Official use ante. Do not write in this area,to be completed by city or town official. City or Town: Permit/License# Issuing Authority(circle one): I.Board of Health 2.Building Department 3.City/Town Clerk 4.Electrical Inspector 5.Plumbing Inspector . 6.Other Contact Person: Phone#: Information and Instructions Massachusetts General Laws chapter 152 requires all employers to provide workers' compensation for their employees. Pursuant to this statute,an employee is defined as`...every person in the service of another under any contract of hire, express or implied,oral or written" An employer is defined as"an individual, partnership, association, corporation or other legal entity, or any two or more of the foregoing engaged in a joint enterprise, and including the legal representatives ofa deceased employer,or the receiver or trustee of an individual,partnership,association or other legal entity,employing employees. However the owner of a dwelling house having not more than three apartments and who resides therein,or the occupant of the dwelling house of another who employs persons to do maintenance, construction or repair work on such dwelling house or on the grounds or building appurtenant thereto shall not because of such employment be deemed to be an employer" MOL chapter 152, §25C(6)also states that"every state or local licensing agency shalt withhold the issuance or renewal of a license or permit to operate a business or to construct buildings in the commonwealth for any applicant who has not produced acceptable evidence of compliance with the insurance coverage required" Additionally. MGL chapter 152, §25C(7)states"Neither the commonwealth nor any of its political subdivisions shall enter into any contract for the performance of public work until acceptable evidence of compliance with the insurance requirements of this chapter have been presented to the contracting authority.' . Applicants Please fill out the workers'compensation affidavit completely, by checking the boxes that apply to your situation and,if necessary, supply sub-contractor(s)name(s),address(es)and phone number(s)along with their certificate(s)of insurance. Limited Liability Companies(LLC)or Limited Liability Partnerships(LLP)with no employees other than the members or partners, are not required to cavy workers' compensation insurance. If an LLC or LLP does have employees, a policy is required. Be advised that this affidavit may be submitted to the Department of Industrial Accidents for confirmation of insurance coverage. Also be sure to sign and date the affidavit. The affidavit should be returned to the city or town that the application for the permit or license is being requested, not the Department of Industrial Accidents. Should you have any questions regarding the law or if you are required to obtain a workers' compensation policy,please call the Department at the number listed below. Self-insured companies should enter their self-insurance license number on the appropriate line. se City or Town Officials Please be sure that the affidavit is complete and printed legibly. The Department has provided a space at the bottom of the affidavit for you to fill out in the event the Office of Investigations has to contact you regarding the applicant. Please be sure to till in the permitilicense number which will be used as a reference number- In addition,an applicant that must submit multiple permit/license applications in any given year.need only submit one affidavit indicating current policy information(if necessary) and under`Job Site Address" the applicant should write"all locations in (city or town)" A copy of the affidavit that has been officially stamped or marked by the city or town may be provided to the applicant as proof that a valid affidavit is on file for future permits or licenses. A new affidavit must be filled out each year.Where a home owner or citizen is obtaining a license or permit not related to any business or commercial venture (i.e. a dog license or permit to bum leaves etc.)said person is NOT required to complete this affidavit. The Office of Investigations would like to thank you in advance for your cooperation and should you have any questions, please do not hesitate to give us a call. as The Departmens address,telephone and fax number: t' The Commonwealth of Massachusetts Department of Industrial Accidents Office of lievestigatious I Congress Street, Suite 100 Boston, MA 02114-2017 Tel. # 617-727-4900 ext 7406 or 1-877-MASSAFE Fax #617-727-7749 Revised 7-2013 wwwanass.gov/dia 10/14/2016 ags 917073dd6cfe619db7300S _0021pn9(1587x 1123) MassGIS Level 3 Assessors' Parcels '-5� � �� 17 if \! � \\ ,. / / -....!3'7.--------.:: ISTp ECT / /� l CT SERAPE> ASE MME] 1 7 nPEE s / \\,, \\, \ ,- .2 AlSim R � fm � ' 4TITINEES nU Oclobe,' 19 2016 1 1 128 il 00l2f 002S 00,mi r--- --�--. _- 0 02 DOB ELE1 Aecn(C'lac,Gz f:3 M a Awa _ € 0€ pc-occ:cry-i\ 1$x 11- !rees4CtcSe_ MIp://9isprpxy.itd.state.ma.us/arcgisserver/restltlirectaries/arcgsouq>WUGI ities/PrintirgTols_GPServer/_ags_917073dtl0cfe419db73000386eae002f.prg 1/1 9/20/2016 253 Prospect St-Google Maps Go gle Maps 253 Prospect St ";" „der Glinp001 • t1 P.P• n 'rp1MC4 Go gle Map data©2016 Google 100 ft -1 li3_ • f Work 253 Prospect St Northampton,MA 01060 „ it-cmccact haps Cwww.google.com/maps/dace/253+ProspecNSC+Norihampton,+MA+01060/@423294271,-7266136,18z/data=l4m&1m 2/10m 1 r1e2!3m41150z89e6d]16. 1/2 Do's & Don'ts of Greenhouse Construction-Eastpoint • Do refer to your sales order to determine what parts and subassemblies you purchased, then go to the instruction manual to find out how to assemble. • Do read all instructions thoroughly,and read ahead to see what the following steps will be. Don't just look at the pictures to see how things are assembled and don't assume that all greenhouses are constructed in the exact same way. • Do inspect all parts to make sure nothing is damaged or missing. Don't wait to call us with a problem. • Do use common sense in locating your greenhouse site and constructing your greenhouse. Don't do anything to jeopardize the safety of you and anyone else involved in the construction process. • Do follow all instructions of the equipment supplied and install properly. Don't assume if you don't know the answer of how something is installed. Call RGS if you have any questions and we will either provide the answer or put you in touch with someone who can assist you. • Do follow all guidelines and laws within your town and state. Do not avoid getting the proper permits or paperwork for construction. • Do not force anything during the assembly process. If there is a problem with something not fitting correctly,we may have made a mistake or you may not be following the instructions properly. Do call us if there is a problem. • Do take your time so that the job is done right and there is no re-work. Don't rush and make mistakes. • Do not re-engineer the greenhouse if there is a problem or unusual situation that may have occurred. Do call RGS and use common sense if a connection has to be made to a building, if you are having problems with your site, or any other unusual situation has occurred. • Do not get uptight with construction. Construction may take longer than it's supposed to, and construction may cost more than it's supposed to. Do relax!!! Version 12-1 2 Recommended Assembly Tools The table below lists a variety of tools that could be used to assemble your greenhouse. Some are supplied by RGS, and some are supplied by you. Between the supplied tools and those you already own,you should have all the basic assembly tools. The optional tools are listed because,based on site conditions or customer expertise, they would be nice to have or even necessary. The assembly steps will call out the tools required for each step. TOOL QUANTITY SUPPLIED BY 1.9" OD Ground Post Driver-care package 1 RGS Magnetic Driver,5/16 in.-care package I KOS Marking Spikes, 6 in. x 3/8 in.-care package 1 _ ROS Mason Line, 225 ft-care package I RGS Positioning Jig(wood) I ROS Extension Cord(length as required) 2 Customer Circular Saw I Customer Hammer 2 Customer Drill (adjustable clutch/torque optional) 2 Customer 4' Wood Stakes 8 Customer Bolt Cutters I Customer Flathead Screwdriver 2 Customer Level, Torpedo I Customer Level,2 ft. 1 Customer Level,4 ft. 1 Customer Line Level I Customer Pickaxe/Breaker Bar 1 Customer Pipe Wrench, 14 in. I Customer Ratchet w/7/16 in. Socket& 4 in. Deep Socket 2 Customer Quick Onp Bar Clamp, 6 in. Pair/Person Customer Safety Glasses 1 Customer Shovel, Round Point 1 Customer Sledgehammer, 5 lb. 1 Customer Stepladder, 8 & 10 ft.(12 ft. optional) 1 to 2 Customer Scaffolding I Customer Tape Measure,25 ft. 2 Customer Tape Measure, 300 ft. (non-stretching) 1 Customer Work Gloves 1 Customer Utility Knife I Customer Powered Post Hole Auger(rental item) I _ Customer(optional) Laser Level or Transit(rental item) 1 Customer(optional) Version 12-I 3 Parts List Refer to the packing/picking list for exact quantities of items marked here as'As Required." Quantities vary due to exact greenhouse length and width. ITEM# QUANTITY DESCRIPTION 1 4 RGSxx001 - 1.66"OD Half End Bow (for 18' or 20' wide models) 2 As Required RGSxx002 - 1.66" OD Half Middle Bow(for 18' or 20' wide models) 3 - As Required RGSRPL - 1.315"OD Ridge Purlin, 20'9" Long, holes drilled every 4' (5' if 5' Bow Spacing), swedged end 4 As Required RGSRPS - 1.315"OD Ridge Purlin. Short(length _variable), holes drill every 4' (5' if 5' Bow Spacing) 5 As Required FC21269 - 5/16" x 4" Carriage Bolt 6 As Required RGSGP—2"OD Ground Post 7 As Required Baseboard, 2 x 6 min., 2 x 10 best (Customer supplied) 8 As Required FC21271 - 5/16" x 4 A" Carriage Bolt 9 As Required FC0163104 - 5/16" Hex Nut 10 As Required FC21263 - 5/16"x 2 'iz"Carriage Bolt 11 As Required J4PN0160 - Cross Connector, 15/8 in. x 13/8 in. 12 1 PBM 1002 - 1.9" Ground Post Driver-care package 13 10 HD065PK - 6"x 3/8"Marking Spike-care package 14 E EC0589974 -225' Roll Mason Line-care ack ....... p a_e 15 1 RGSAJ- Positioning Jig(wood) 17 1 FC61007- 5116" Magnetic Driver-care sacka>e 18 As Required FC31818 -#12 x 1"Self Drilling/Self Tapping Tek Screw 19 As Required FC21259 - 5/16" x 1 '/i "Carriage Bolt _ 20 As Required RGSRC-2"OD Ridge Connector 23 4 RGSSEPD- 1.315" OD Side End Purlin, Long, I hole, swedged end 24 As Required 21' lengths of swedged tube - 1.315" OD Side Middle Purlin, no holes 25 As Required RGSSEPS - 1.315"OD Side End Purlin, Short, (length variable), I hole 26 As Required HBB158E - 1 5/8" Brace Band 27 As Required 111311138E- 13//8" Brace Band N/A 8 RGSWB—Wind Brace(54") or RGSWBS (64") if 5' Bow Spacing Version 12-1 4 STEP # 1 Inventory Parts Using the packing,picking and parts lists, inventory the shipment to ensure you have all of the greenhouse components and hardware. Quantities and items are dependent on greenhouse length and width. Figure One identifies the structural parts of the greenhouse frame, to help you visualize where the parts are used. Figures Two, Three,and Four(Illustrated Parts List)provide an aid to the visual identification of the parts. Item 1, Half End Bows are color coded on the ends of the bows to distinguish size: green indicates bows for a 18' wide house and red for 20'. Only items referred to in these assembly instructions for your greenhouse frame are included on the parts list. Other optional components of your greenhouse, for example,heaters, fans, shutters,thermostats, poly film, and irrigation equipment may ship separately and will be noted as "Direct Ship"on the packing list.We make every effort to comply with your delivery requests, and try to time separate shipments to arrive within a week of other shipments. Unfortunately, unforeseen shortages or other uncontrollable events may make this impossible. If it does, we'll let you know when the product is expected to ship. These items come with their own packing lists and installation instructions. Carefully inspect all direct shipped items that come via common carrier for damage. If damaged, do not accept the shipment. Notify your sales person immediately so that we can expedite replacements. Please refer to your final quote or invoice to verify that you have received all the line items of your order. Through continuous quality improvement programs, we are always evaluating and improving our manufacturing processes. Still, for whatever the reason, you may inventory the shipment and discover a missing part. Call your respective sales person listed on the preceeding page and we will make every effort to get the missing item shipped out to you(by UPS if possible) the same day. Version 12-1 5 INVENTORY OF PARTS 272' � 7 \ \ \ FIGURE 1 -- 11AOL Note—truss supports and truss braces are not on the Eastpoint frame. Each Easpoint frame has 2 side purlins only. Version 12-I 6 ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST FIGURE 2 END BOW INTERMEDIATE BOW SIDE END PURLIN LONG RIDGE PURLIN LONG SIDE MIDDLE PURLIN RIDGE END PURLIN SHORT SIDE END PURLIN SHORT GROUND POST Version 12-1 1 ,.. 7 • • • Swaged tubing with no holes 21 ft. long are the side middle purlins or the roller bars for the roll u 9 sides 'H.#5 k .0: 141\k\a‘ • The short pieces on the left are the side end purlins and the 21 ft. long pieces on the right are the side end purlins long. These purlins have one hole a the end of the tube. Version 12-1 8 The .urlins with holes drilled eve 4 ft. are the ride .urlins I1 1 You should organize all of your purlins and other components to the greenhouse prior to installation. Version 12-1 9 ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST FIGURE 3 POSITIONING JIG ," TRUSS SUPPORT RIDGE CONNECTOR . -- TRUSS BRACE CROSS CONNECTOR -- --- --- GROUND POST DRIVER MARKING SPIKE _ ROLL MASON LINE MAGNETIC DRIVER ' FOR DRILL 13/8" BRACE BAND BRACE BAND 3/8" DRILL BIT -- ---- - - RIMOL Cbstahwas Version I2-1 10 ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST FIGURE 4 5/16" x 4" CARRIAGE BOLT 5/16" x 2 1/2" CARRIAGE BOLT 5/16" x 11/2" CARRIAGE BOLT #12 X 1" SELF DRILLING SELF TAPPING TEK SCREW 5/16" HEX NUT (DRAWING NOT TO SCALE) RIMOL Version 12-I II STEP # 2 Site Preparation There is no substitute for good site preparation. The area selected for the greenhouse site should be well drained, free of vegetation, large surface stones,and debris. Ground posts must be driven into the ground a minimum of 24 inches(and sometimes even deeper, if the extended ground post option is selected), so any known subsurface obstructions that would interfere with ground post installation must be removed. These steps are best done several weeks before the greenhouse is installed,so that any disturbed soil will compact again. We recommend locating the greenhouse a minimum of at least 12 feet away from adjacent greenhouses, objects, structures, and trees, to prevent shading and/or potential damage to the greenhouse. Plan for heavy snows, if applicable, and think of how you will remove snow between greenhouses(one reason we recommend a 12'spacing is to facilitate snow removal between houses). If you have not already done so, check local zoning and building ordinances regarding setback and clearance requirements for your greenhouse. Your site should be as level as possible; a transit or site level (optional) is very useful in determining level. Fill in low spots and grade high points to make surface uniform. Your greenhouse should be as level as possible along the width dimension. A slight pitch, sloping away from the greenhouse, is desirable to allow for runoff of any surface water within the greenhouse. The change in grade should not exceed '/," per every 12', both widthwise and lengthwise. Use an acceptable type of fill for the location of the greenhouse. This depends on soil conditions and drainage. Consult the company that will be providing you the fill. Typical types of fill include bank run,course sand, gravel and other materials that pack well and have good drainage. Consider how you will provide water, power, and telephone/data transmission lines to your greenhouse. Many greenhouse owners install a 5-inch pipe underground to run these lines through, allowing for easy access to them when expanding, or if a problem arises. Whether or not you choose to do so, draw a site map that notes the exact location of all known underground utilities installed by you or a utility company. For your own safety, dial 1-800-DIG-SAFE before digging;they will contact the applicable utilities to send people out to mark the location of underground utilities. This service is free of charge in most areas. Version 12-1 32 ry„ -!Y a r • p 7-AIC i s '+ pts: s A • frit " ",Ic t " ' int 1 z �1 t 9aP Si 3 tla �1 Av� .LR Good site work is worth the investment and makes the greenhouse construction a lot more efficient and accurate, It is recommended to have your excavator trench where ground posts will be located and backfill with stone free soil. This will make ground post installation sim,le and eas . i 1 xri41.-9 r44: eve it. x ., Ar If you have sloping terrain,create a swale for water to flow away from the greenhouse when it rains. Good drainage is important. Version 12-1 13 STEP # 3 Ground Post Layout In this step, you'll identify the location of, square, and install the four corner Ground Posts. You'll need: • Item 6, Ground Post, 1.9" OD • Item 12, Ground Post Driver for I.9"OD Posts • Item 13, Marking Spike, 6 in. x 3/8 in. • Item 14, Mason Line,325 ft. • 25 ft. Tape Measure • 300 ft. Tape Measure • Sledgehammer • Safety Glasses • Torpedo or 2 ft. Level • Permanent Marker • Powered Post Hole Auger(optional rental item) • Laser Level or Transit(optional rental item) • Batter Boards or Wood Stakes Refer to Figures 5& 6 to complete this step. • Determine the direction in which you want to orient the greenhouse. Optimal growing conditions are achieved when this style of greenhouse is oriented on an east-west axis. However, a freestanding greenhouse works well in all orientations. • Using Sledgehammer, drive Item 13, Marking Spike into ground where you want to position the left front corner ground post. • Using a 25 ft. Tape Measure, measure directly across from the left front marking spike the width of your greenhouse (18' or 20') and drive marking spike into the ground to mark position of the right front corner ground post. Important note: The most commonly accepted measurement practice is "on center", which means measuring from the center of a reference point to the center of the next reference point. It doesn't matter how you measure (center to center, outside to outside, etc.) as long as you are consistent in your measuring practices. • Next, measure out one foot beyond the marking spikes (see Figure 5) in both the width and length axes and install batter boards by driving them 18 inches into the ground. Securely tie Mason Twine to the batter boards across the width axis, ensuring that the twine is located across the center of the spike. Version 12-1 14 • Now, measure out the length of your greenhouse from the center of the front spikes. Drive spikes into the ground to mark the location of the left rear and right rear corner ground posts. Install the rear batter hoards as you did the front ones, and tie mason twine tautly from front to back along both length axes and the remaining rear width axis. The width and length twines should. intersect across the center of all the spikes. • To check for square, measure from the left front to the right rear spikes, and from the right front to left rear spikes. Both measurements should be the same. If not, recheck your width and length measurements and reposition spikes accordingly. • Mark Item 6, Ground Post, 8 inches down from the top of the post if using 2 in. x 6 in, baseboards (mark at 12 in. if using 2 in. x 10 in. baseboards) with Permanent Marker. • Using Item 12, Ground Post Driver, Sledgehammer, (optional Powered Post Hole Auger or Digger/Breaker Bar can be used to open or start post hole), and ground posts, install the left and right front corner ground posts. Center post over spike, with twine lines on the outsides of the posts, twist slightly to mark location in soil surface, then remove marking spike. Orient posts so that the predrilled holes face the inside and outside of the greenhouse (you will attach the bows and baseboards through these holes in later steps). Set ground posts into soil mark, slip ground post driver into ground post and drive posts into the ground to the mark you made on the posts (the twine lines should intersect the center of the post). With the Torpedo or 2 ft. Level, check for level on top of and two sides of the ground post once or twice as you drive it and again when it is fully driven. Now you'll use a triangulation method(or the optional Site Level or Transit) to recheck the position of the left rear corner ground post and square it with the other corner posts. Refer to Figure 6; which shows the on center and the insideloutside methods measurements. Use either method, but be sure to use the same method throughout. • Using Item 14, Mason Line, tie a line from the left front ground post to the right front ground post;tie it tightly. • Using a 25 ft.tape measure, measure from the left front ground post(Pont A) to the right front ground post. At the 12-foot mark(Point C),drive a marking spike into the ground;make sure it is aligned with the line. • Now measure from the left front ground post in the direction of the left rear ground post. At the 16-foot mark,drive a marking spike into the ground (Point B). Version 12-1 15 • Measure from Point C to Point B; if square, this should equal 20 feet. If it doesn't, recheck your measurements. It's helpful to verify the measurement from Point A to Point C (12 feet), then use two tape measures (either two 25 ft tape measures and/or the 300 ft. Tape Measure) —one from Point A to Point B (16 feet), the other from Point C to Point B (20 feet). You may need another person or two to do this. The point where these two measurements intersect is Point B, and proves that the line from the right front to left front ground posts is square with the line from the left front ground post to Point B. • Using the 300 ft. tape measure, extend the left front ground post/Point B line to recheck the position of the left rear marking spike. Example: if your greenhouse were 96 feet long, you would measure along the line until you reach the 96-foot mark. Since the measurement of the ground post is from the outside edge to the inside edge [or on center from post to post], house length is always the stated length plus two inches). • Install the left rear ground post as you installed the front ground posts. Use this triangulation method on the opposite side to recheck the position of the right rear corner ground post and install the post as described above. As a last check for square, measure diagonally from the right front to left rear ground post, and from left front to right rear ground post(make all measurements from the outside of the posts). The measure should be equal, although a 1 to 2 inch difference is acceptable. . k Ppal}c.( f' f S5 � .. . i A'1 •t p F - ..' .+r. _ " ' tea. SR jr $ zt' Check your diagonals and make sure you are within I to 2 inches of each measurement. Version 12-1 16 t. • IF TAME CORRECTLY BOTH LIMES SHOUD D t IIF "ESOTH , r' YI0 N 11 u.,ER 'CARDS N FIGURE 5 AEON LINE to .r, , _ 1� , tC ERIE EE LY BO?N . • LINES DE EQUAL LENGTH ry<EmrH • ``�-�=, • • `? • ' • • i' i • N • i \N • In 411 RAE ER BURROS-/ FIGURE 5 L MASON LINE 6--+• 16, VOUTSIDE 1£0100 @� , > 12:120' 14 frok Version 12-1 17 Lr EP REARRIGHTRIGHT REAR � ARMED POST� rr ALL R WNID EaOUIU POST I MARKING SPIRE 0 tA� I ' iUl `� ; e fL • • • • o I1 _ L/ It TVIRE IYe(aced Roti the Ground Pod �� NIGHT FRONT MOUND R� •O jO 2 „ 'oo eT iFIGURE 8` ae CENraNtn1oo I =mak TFFT REAR RICHT REAR /-vmu�v PCS GROUND RUST • WIDTH • GRQINO POST • • RARIcre SPIKE • • iv (- ` • • WAR •BCE I LJ N 1 • • TWINE • Ise Ground NOR .a• RIGHT Diver ESA • IuT ERwT the&arM • \\`l Rmv POST • • N•© i 3 t < 2 T&0.* FREIR FIGURE 9 Nv PEST Adam/0 Alm as= flit& INSIDE 1 OUTSIDE — ^.L Version 12-1 I' 18 WENDED GROUND POST _ - RIMOL ui:ms Version 12-1 19 STEP # 4 Ground Post Installation & Alignment With the four corner posts now installed and squared, the next step is to install and align the remaining ground posts. This step is best accomplished with two people. For this step, you'll need: • Item 6, 1.9" OD Ground Post • (tem 12,Ground Post Driver for 1.9"OD Post • Item 14, Mason Line,325 ft. • Item 15, Positioning Jig(wood) • Torpedo or 2 ft. Level • 4 ft. Level • Sledgehammer, 8 to 10 lb. • Tape Measure, 100 ft. • Safety Glasses • Permanent Marker Refer to Figure 7 to complete this step, which illustrates both the on center and inside/outside methods. Be sure to continue using the same method you used in Step #3. Refer to Figure 8 if you have extended ground posts: RGS2EGP to RGS4EGP. One person can perform this step; however, two or more people are recommended due to the strenuous nature of the work and the need to do multiple measurements, as the ground posts are set. This is a very important step,so take the time to do it correctly. You may run into the situation where the ground post you are driving meets with a very large subsurface stone that cannot be removed. If this happens with ground posts other than the comer ground posts (which must be installed at the full depth specified), it is an acceptable practice to cut off up to a foot of the bottom of the ground post to accommodate the subsurface obstruction. A reciprocating saw fitted with a metal cutting blade works well in cutting ground posts to size, or you can use a Portaband; either of these tools can be rented. You do want to check which way the obstruction is running before you cut a post,as you never want to cut consecutive posts short. Use the Digging/Breaker Bar or other tool to probe the subsurface to determine the size of the obstruction and insure it doesn't run under where the next post is to be placed. If it does, you will have to either remove the stone or drill through it to accept the next post. Version 124 20 • Using Item 14, Mason Line, run a length of line from the left front batter board to the left rear batter board,and another length between the right front and the right rear batter boards. Align the twine so that it intersects the hole of the ground post. Be sure the line is tight and secure, as it will act as your guideline for aligning and setting ground post height. The twine should not touch the ground posts but remain slightly off to ensure the line stays straight. • Using the 100 ft tape measure, mark the mason twine at 4 foot increments with the permanent marker to indicate the ground post positions. Do this on both the left and right sides. • Line up a ground post adjacent to the left front corner ground post, and lined up with the mark on the twine. The predrilled hole in the ground post should face towards the inside and outside of the greenhouse. • Using Item 12, Ground Post Driver, and Sledgehammer(or optional Powered Post Hole Auger or Digger/Breaker Bar to open/start post hole), drive the ground post into the ground. While driving post, stop once or twice to check level using the Torpedo or 2 ft. Level on at least two sides of the post, and again when it is fully driven; correct as needed to bring into level (Tip: wedging small stones against the base of the post and striking them with the sledgehammer in the direction of level can help bring a partially driven ground post back to level). The ground post should be even with the line and level on at least two sides when fully driven. It should be firmly in the ground; if there is any play, wedge stones near the base of the ground post at the soil line to hold it firm. If you are driving into very sandy soil, the ground posts may require concrete around the subsurface portion of the post to hold it firmly in the ground. If so, excavate post hole to a depth of 24 inches and a diameter of 12 inches. Insert ground post into hole and backfill hole with concrete. Check that ground post is level after the concrete has been poured by using torpedo level on top and at least two sides. Support the ground post with batter boards to insure it remains level while the concrete cures. • Use the 4 ft Level to check level between the left front ground post and the newly installed wound post; reposition post if necessary to bring into level with the left front ground post. You may also opt to use a line level attached to the twine, a method that works equally well. • Repeat the above steps to install the remaining ground posts on both sides of the greenhouse. Version 12-1 21 INSIDE / OUTSIDE METHOD ALL VIEWS FROM - -THE OUTSIDE OF - - -GREENHOUSE Use Ground Post Detail "A" Driver to install Twine attachment the Ground Posts - -r __ - ._ - _ . __ -.. _ ._- _ _ __ - FIGURE 7 RIMOL - Version 12-1 22 EXTENDED GROUND POST Version 12-1 23 k '� ray - , .',m .c t s .;$,..."1:;513-1?- .max. ^ 4 vrt _ `i .s A transit or laser level makes • ovndjjjwst installation as and accurate it di f ms ' s . t Version 121 2".........."1"....."......"3/417";"" "1"............".....11.11.1.1 ........"......... .. ar'l a'- ` 24 • - t c . S. . I c 1\ Cheek each ground .est Careful, duan, installation to kee. as Plumb as Possible r . t � Ya r .., 411 w 4 Version 12-1 h. 25 Using a double string wrapped around the corner ground posts provides an accurate location for • ound lost installation Version 12-I 26 Attention If you have purchased a ridge vent for your greenhouse, on the vent side, item #20 (ridge connector), replace item #10 (5/16" x 2 /z" carriage bolt) with item # 11 (3/8" x 2 '/a" hex head bolt) provided with ridge vent assembly kit. Install the hex nut on the bolt, but do not tighten. This will facilitate the assembly of the vent braces when you build the ridge vent after completing the frame assembly. If you do not have a ridge vent, skip this step. Refer to the vent instructions to determine what side of the greenhouse should have the vent. Version 12-1 27 STEP # 5 Assemble & Install Bows and Ridge Purlins In this step, you will assemble the half end bows and half middle bows together using ridge connectors. You willthen install the completed end and middle bows into the ground posts. This step requires two to three people. For this step, you'll need: • Item I, Haff End Bows • Item 2, Half Middle Bows • Item 9,5/16" Hex Nut • Item 10,5/16"x 2W'Carriage Bolt • Item 13, 6" x 3/8" Marking Spike • Item 16,3/8" Drill Bit • item 19,5/16" xl '%" Carriage Bolt • Item 20, 2"OD Ridge Connector • Electric Drill and Pipe Wrench, 14 in. Bow Assembly Refer to Figure 8 to complete this step. We recommend that you layout the half bows with the ends of the bows adjacent to the ground posts, and the tops of the bows pointing into and towards the back of the greenhouse.Place a ridge connector near the junction of the half bows. Start at the front of the greenhouse with (2) half end bows. They are distinguished by their predrilled hole in one place (as well as colored tips) for purlin attachments; the intermediate bows do not have this feature). • Note: if you had to dig a trench to install ground posts, it is acceptable to attach the baseboard to the ground posts to prevent the bows from falling over due to the unstable ground. • Start with the front end bow. Refer to Figure 8. Assemble two of Item 1, Half End Bows together by inserting them into Item 20, Ridge Connector. Align the predrilled holes in the ridge connector with the predrilled holes in the half end bows. Fasten the ridge connector to the half end bows using two each of Item 10, Carriage Bolt(5/16 in. x 2 '¶4 in.) and Item 9, Hex Nut (5/16 in.). Insert carriage bolt through top of the ridge connector so that threads are inside the greenhouse. Thread hex nut onto bolt and tighten. • With one person on either end of assembled gable end bow, lift bow and slip one end of the bow into the right front ground post. Version 121 2$ • Now insert the other end of bow into the left front ground post. Because the bow is engineered to be flexible, you may have to pull the bow slightly in the direction of the post to allow it to slip into the post. • Loosely secure the bow to the ground posts„ using Item 10,Carriage Bolt (5/16 in. x 2 1/2 in.)and Item 9, Hex Nut(5/16 in.).Align the predrilled holes in the ground post and bow to accept the carriage bolt; you may need to twist the ground post slightly with the Pipe Wrench to make the holes align properly. From the outside of the ground post, slide the carriage bolt through the hole of the ground post and bow so that the threads of the carriage bolt face the inside of the greenhouse; hand tighten the nut onto the bolt. If the carriage bolt does not go through the predrilled holes easily, do not force it— you will damage the carriage bolt threads. Use Item 16, Drill Bit,3/8 in.and Electric Drill to re-drill the hole from the inside to the outside.This will correct minor misalignments if you cannot align the predrilled holes by twisting the ground post with the pipe wrench. • Now assemble the middle bows; also refer to Figure&. Assemble two of Item 2, Half Middle Bows, together by inserting them into a ridge connector. Align the predrilled holes in the ridge connector with the predrilled holes in the half middle bows. Fasten them together the same way you fastened the ridge connector and half end bows. • Lift assembled middle bow and insert into next set of ground posts. Fasten as you did with the end bow installation, and repeat until all the bows are assembled. Version 12-1 29 FIGURE 8 END BOW ASSEMBLY � r DETAIL"A'• RIMOL 11111.4 i-i t tea / ;' k, _, Use a pipe wrench to twist the ground post to line up with the holes Version 12-I 30 Install Ridge Purlins Next, you will install the long and short ridge purlins that run along the top of the greenhouse. This assembly requires a minimum of 2 people. For this assembly, you'll need the following items: • Item 3, Ridge Purlin Long, swedged end • Item 4,Ridge Purlin, Short (length variable) • Item 5,5716" x 4"Carriage Bolt • Item 9, 5/16" Hex Nut • Ratchet with 1/2 in. Socket • Electric Drill • 10 ft.Stepladders Refer to Figures 10 & 11 to complete this assembly. Start with the front end bow and work sequentially, bow by bow,towards the rear end bow. Start with the ridge purlin run first. Attach Item 3, Ridge Purlin,Long and Item 4, Ridge Purlin, Short first. NOTE:The ridge purlin is installed over the ridge connector. Installing the ridge purlin over the ridge connector gives the ridge a more peaked profile. Installing the ridge purlin tinder the ridge connector is not recommended because poly can more easily get snagged on a bolt of a ridge connector. • Position Item 3, Ridge Purlin, Long along the greenhouse peak, on top of the ridge connectors; this requires 2 people on 1.0 ft. Stepladders. The long ridge purlin has a plain end and a swedged end(the long ridge purlins are distinguished by a predrilled hole in the plain and swedged ends; the long side purlins are not drilled through the swedged end). Align the predrilled hole in the plain end of the long ridge purlin with the predrilled hole in the center of the ridge connector. See Detail C, Figure 11. With your helper holding the long ridge purlin steady at the other end, attach it to the gable end bow by inserting Item 8, Carriage Bolt(5/16 in. x 4 in.) through the purlin and ridge connector so that the bolt threads are inside the greenhouse,Thread Item 9, Hex Nut(5/16 in.)onto carriage bolt and hand lighten. • Fasten the long ridge purlin to the ridge connectors as described above to the next four middle bows. • If your greenhouse calls for another long ridge purlin, slide the plain end of the purlin onto the swedged end of the installed long ridge purlin. Insure the swedged end of the long ridge purlin is correctly seated into the next long ridge purlin(the swedged end must be inserted into the plain end). Align the predrilled holes in the swedged and plain ends of the purlins with the Version 12-1 31 predrilled hole in the ridge connector and fasten as you did on the previous bows. • Continue to install the long ridge purlins as instructed above. Finish with the short ridge purlin, which attaches to the last long ridge purlin and bolts through the ridge connector in the same manner as the long ridge purlins were joined. Complete the installation by bolting the short ridge purlin to the rear gable end bow using a 5/16"x 4" carriage bolt and 5/16"hex nut. Version 12-1 i2 • STEP # 6 Install Side Purlins In this step, you will install the long and short side purlins that run the length of the greenhouse. This step requires a minimum of 2 people. For this step,you'll need the following items: • Item 5,5/16" x 4"Carriage Bolt • Item 9, 5/16" Hex Nut • Item 11, 1 5/8" x 1 3/8" Cross Connector • Item 15, Positioning Jig • Item 18,Tek Screw • Item 23, Side End Purlin, Long(length variable) 1 hole,swedged end • Item 24, Side Middle Purlin (length variable),swedged end, no holes • Item 25,Side End Purlin,Short, (length variable), 1 hole • Ratchet with 7116 in. Socket and Y:in.Deep Socket; 8' or 10' Stepladders Refer to Figures 10& 11 to complete this step. • There are two runs, one each on either side of the greenhouse. They bolt to the gable end bows just like the ridge purlins, except they are attached on the inside of the greenhouse. They are fastened to the middle bows with cross connectors. Item 11,Cross Connector,consists of two metal straps fastened together around the purlin and bow by two ''h inch x 1 inch carriage bolts and two '/ inch hex nuts. See Figure 11, Detail D. The inside of the middle bows are marked with blue reference lines to indicate where to fasten the purlin to the middle bow with the cross connector. Use the blue reference lines as a guide only; the position of the ground posts greatly affects bow alignment. • Attach Item 23,Side End Purlin, Long to gable end bow.Align the predrilled hole in the gable end bow with the predrilled hole in the plain end of the long side purlin(Tip: if the predrilled holes in the gable end bow and purlin will not align, recheck the plumb of the ground posts with the torpedo level; if not plumb, then the purlin and ridge holes will not align). Attach by inserting Item 5,Carr Bolt 5116"x 4"(if 2" Bow)through the gable end bow, into and through the long side end purlin so that the threads are facing the inside of the greenhouse. Thread a hex nut onto the carriage boll, and tighten as previously directed. • Once the long side end purlin is fastened to the end bow, attach the purlin to the next four middle bows with cross connectors. Have your helpers hold Item 15, Positioning Jig, between the front end how and the adjacent middle bow on both sides of the greenhouse.They should hold the jig chest high on the outside of the greenhouse,with the bows in the center cutouts of the jig. Version 12-1 33 You and your other helper should be inside the greenhouse on 8 ft. Stepladders. Have your helper support the long side end purlin. Align the purlin with the blue line on the middle bow and fasten purlin to the bow with the cross connector. Orient cross connector hardware so that the carriage bolt threads face the floor of the greenhouse. Tighten cross connector hex nuts sufficiently to keep the purlin from slipping, but do not tighten all the way. Continuously observe the perpendicularity and alignment of the bows during assembly; adjust as necessary by repositioning ground posts. • Move positioning jigs down one bow, and repeat the above step until you reach the end of the long side end purlin. • When you reach the end of the long side end purlin. insure that the plain end of either the next long middle purlin or Item 24,Side Pullin,Short is fully seated into the long side end purlin, Make certain that your helpers have the jigs in place between bows. Attach the long side middle purlin to the long side end purlin or short side end purlin using two Item 18,Tek Screws and the electric drill fitted with Magnetic Driver,5/16 in. Tekscrews should be placed at one inch and two inches from the purlin union—see Figure II, Detail B; - and oriented downward away from the greenhouse roof. (Tip: when driving Tek screws,start drill slowly, increasing speed as screw bites into the purlin. If your drill is equipped with an adjustable clutch/torque, set the torque setting just below the drill setting. Do not over tighten). • If you joined a long side end purlin and a long side middle purlin together in the above step,continue aligning jigs between bows and installing cross connectors (repeat above step if necessary to connect another long side middle purlin). • When you reach the point where you connect the short side end purlin to the last long side middle purlin, attach the short side end purlin to the rear end bow as you attached the long side end purlin to the front end bow. • Repeat above steps to install the other side purlin run on the opposite side of the greenhouse. • Once all the side purlin runs are installed, go back and verify the positioning of the side purlins and cross connectors against the blue lines on the bows. • Tighten all hardware in the following order; start at the top with the ridge purlin. Tighten using Ratchet with Y:in.Deep Socket. If using an electric drill equipped with an adjustable clutch/torque setting, set it back five stops from the highest setting. Do not over tighten the bolts. The nuts should be a half turn past snug. Tighten all ridge connector hardware after the ridge purlins (use the same ratchet'drill socket setup as you did for the ridge puffin). Next, tighten all cross connector hardware with ratchet or electric drill fitted Version 121 34 with 7/16 in. socket. Lastly, tighten the carnage bolts and hex nuts holding the bows to the ground posts using the ratchet or drill fitted with the 1/2 in. deep socket. Tip:After tightening the ridge connector, ridge purlin, and end bow hardware, apply a layer or two of duct tape over the heads of the carriage bolts. This will prevent the poly film from snagging on them as you adjust the poly film over the frame. PU&LIN INSTALLATION? L' n'x , N. i \ \ \ \ \ � 999 FIGURE 10- FOR Ee3„STPOINT& NORTHPOINT ONLY w ,.. Version 12-1 35 DETAILP1RIDGE UR SIDE $LIN CONNECTION RIDGE PURLM/END BOW CONNECTION ARV MI il I ,,.., .< ,.�. - . j .. 0 '.L( hNILr..,,,. O' g T II` -__ . ... _ ___.. FIGURE 11. INTERMEDIATE BOW PURLIN AND TRUSS CONECIIONS CROSS CONNECTOR CONNECTION SIDE PURLR:i END BOW CONNECTION 1 _� ). ae IN .'� 4 J i.i e , �o / F r... <cb.o^ lc RIMOL nares___ 11 Version 12-1 36 isiralli"ev "E. 1 t r1 ... 1. i a The wooden jig helps line up the bows with the puffin Version 12-1 37 STEP # 7 Install Baseboards & Wind Bracinj The final step of the greenhouse structural framework is to install the baseboards. This step requires two people. For this step you will need: • Item 7, Baseboard, 2 in. wide • (2)2-hole pipe straps, (4)woodmate screws,(1) tek screw • 2 or 4 ft. Level • 6 in. Quick Grip Clamp • Magnetic Driver • Drill • Round Point Shovel • Pickaxe • Splicing Cleats or Metal Wood Splicer (optional) Refer to the photos below to complete this step. We recommend that the baseboard and any other wood used to construct the greenhouse be treated or naturally resistant to decay and insects. Two woods naturally resistant to decay and insects are cedar and redwood, but they are generally very expensive. Wood treated with borax or other sodium-based preservatives (Wolman) are considered to be organic treatments and are excellent in resisting insects and decay. Wood that has been pressure treated with Copper Chromium Arsenate (CCA) is another acceptable treatment; it is very popular with greenhouse owners and is widely used in the industry. We do not recommend any wood that has been treated with petroleum derivatives, such as creosote, coal tars, or penta. These preservatives outgas fumes that are detrimental to polyethylene coverings and especially to plant health. Important Note: Most lumber is sold in 8, 12, or 16-foot lengths, which are multiples of 4 feet— the same as the typical bow spacing. If installed as is, this will result in splice joints occurring on ground posts— and splices cannot be done on ground posts. To solve this, install baseboards so that they do not end on a ground post. For example, a 2 in. x 6 in.x 12 ft baseboard ends on a ground post, but if you cut it to 10 feet, the splice will end up between bows (many owners use the excess 2 feet as the cleats to make the inter-bow splices). • If necessary, remove any soil along the outside perimeter of the ground posts with Round Point Shovel and/or Pickaxe so that Item 7, Baseboard, doesn't rest on high points in the soil. Pull any excess soil to the outside of the greenhouse, as you will be banking it back against the baseboard. Version 12-1 38 • Using two 6 in.Quick Grip Clamps, clamp baseboard to the outside of the right front ground post and the next adjacent ground post. • With 2 ft, Level, check level of baseboard clamped between the bows. Adjust baseboard and clamps if necessary to bring into level. • For each ground post, from the inside of the greenhouse, attach(2)two hole pipe straps with woodmate screws and only Itek screw in one of the 2-hole pipe straps. • Repeat above three steps for the next two ground posts,moving bar clamps as necessary. • Now splice installed baseboard with next baseboard section. Use wood cleats made from excess baseboard material, check level, and fasten either joiner with wood screws that are an appropriate length for the work. If you are using wood cleats, install them on the surface that faces the inside of the greenhouse, as the outside surface will be used to attach your poly fastening system. Next, move bar clamp from right front ground post and clamp baseboard to third ground post. Check level, drill hole, and install hardware as directed above. Repeat above steps until baseboards are installed on both sides of greenhouse. • Bank soil against the inside and outside of the baseboard to fill any gaps between the baseboard and the ground. Diagonal Bracing • Wind braces are 54" long and there are two used in each of the four corners of the greenhouse. They are attached as per the photo on the following page with brace bands, carriage bolts and nuts. Congratulations! Your greenhouse frame is now ready for end wall framing,as well as installation of the other components required for an operational greenhouse. The following sections of this manual cover the installation of these components. Depending on the options you selected for your greenhouse, some of these installation instructions may not apply to you. Now is a good time to move large equipment into the greenhouse. Version 12-I • 39 i Pre-marking your locations for the 2 hole straps with ajig makes this process much more efficient 4 • • Version 12-I 40 ' mnayn-. ate • iff Baseboard installation F era Splice Version 12-1 4' i ,,' -,,. w . « < \\ \ ` % . . / « /1 \\, / i ! < . ! � � ) / . . P .t \\ & , 1 z . \ • lit;:/fes ; \ \ 2 \ \ \ wz ? / \ 1 \\ / : % ! - . I \ \ \.\ y . L < 2 w � © ° HI ..1. \ \ > � \ > � ^ d T � ® ° � ' » � ®»»22 y. . . . . . . > \! d ! < If you have J "high a�/ (this is an optional } install the extra wind es up high on the Version s, 42 Warranty Rimol Greenhouse Systems, Inc. (RGS),warrants to the original purchaser that the greenhouse frame(s) manufactured by RGS will be free of defects in materials or workmanship for a period of five years. This warranty applies to frames installed to RGS specifications and subjected to nonnal and reasonable use by the purchaser. The warranty is extended to the original purchaser and is non-transferable. The following conditions must be met to satisfy this warranty: I. The greenhouse is a heated greenhouse with an alarm system and a back-up power source. 2. The greenhouse is installed on level ground,and there are no other objects or structures within ten feet of the greenhouse. 3. Rimol Greenhouse Systems is not responsible for replacement of any other equipment, plant material or other items in the greenhouse due to failure of the greenhouse. 4. Rimol Greenhouse Systems is not responsible for any compensation or loss due to business interruption 5. Rimol Greenhouse Systems is not responsible for any labor or charges incurred to remove and/or replace damaged parts. 6. Rimol Greenhouse Systems has the right to inspect any or all parts before honoring this warranty. 7. Rimol Greenhouse Systems must be notified of all claims within 24 hours of damage by phone,and submitted in writing within 48 hours. All parts of the greenhouse frame are warranted for a period of five years from the date on purchase. Proof of purchase must be furnished with any claim. Version 12-1 1 Installing polyethylene film Tips: • Poly should be put on in the early morning hours when the air is calm and there is little or no breeze, • If covering with an infrared film, this layer goes on first. It does not matter which way it is oriented since there is not an upside down or right side up. If you are using IR film from Green-Tek, follow their instructions • If you are covering with an extra long roll of poly (such as using one 150 ft. long roll for a 72 ft. long house),you will have to cut the poly at the halfway point for your second layer of covering • Use a minimum of 4 people to put poly on a greenhouse • Have your wires for your wire lock spread out all around the greenhouse so they are ready for installation. It is recommended to cut up a few small sections of 1 ft. long pieces for quick installation. Work the wires into the groove. Do not snap the wires into the groove because this can rip the poly. • You will need to have either a tall step ladder or extension ladder at each end of the greenhouse • Attach the blower bracket deflector kit before you install poly if using two layers. See instructions inside the package. This should be installed on the first bow from the end just above the curve • If you are installing poly on both the roof and end walls, install the end wall poly first • If you only end up getting inflation on one side of the greenhouse,you may have to add a jumper tube at each end at the peaks. This can be done at any time after the installation process • It is not the manufacturer's recommendation to install poly in temperatures of less than 40 degrees • Good inflation will create a "pillow" of about 6" to 18" • If your poly has a rip, you can purchase greenhouse repair tape from RGS in either 2", 4" or 6" width. Do not use regular tape since it will not withstand the elements Version 15-2 2 Installation: L Lay poly along side of greenhouse in one corner, The roll of poly is in an 8 ft.long box so you will need about 10 ft. of working space 2. Roll out poly along one side of greenhouse to the other end 3. Every 24 ft.tie a rope such as a nylon clothes line to a tennis ball and attach to the poly. This will allow you to throw the tennis ball over the greenhouse with the rope attached to the tennis ball and poly. You will then be able to pull the poly over the middle of the greenhouse 4. Start at one end and begin pulling the poly over the greenhouse. Slowly work the poly over the greenhouse making sure it does not get caught on any hardware on the bows or purlins 5. After the first layer is pulled completely over the greenhouse,temporarily secure the poly in the four corners with a wire lock wire 6. Cut an "X" in the poly at the blower bracket and install the white deflector by twisting and locking it into place 7. Roll out second layer of poly If used and follow the previous sequence to install second layer. Do not pull the poly tight if it is two layers. You want to ensure inflation by letting it drape into its natural position. If it is a single layer, then you can pull poly tight S. Remove the temporary wires from the first layer and re-install them so they are now holding both layers of film in its place 9. Install the wire lock wires on one of the end bows completely 10.Then install the wires along the sides working from the completed end bow towards the uncompleted end bow 11. Add wires to other end bow 12. If you have roll up sides,let poly drape over sides and finish roll up side installation later 13. Once the blower is turned on, let the poly inflate completely and then close the door on the blower about half way 14. Trim poly so that there is between 2" and 4"of extra poly past the wire lock Version 15-2 3 .;mac ,... est _ Poly on end walls: 1. When you add poly to the end walls, you can add a second wire lock wire to the end bow wire lock to hold in place 2. Attach other wires to wire lock to hold in place or add batten tape (3/4" wide white vinyl plastic)with V" staples 3. End wall poly should be pulled tight 4. Trim excess poly when completed Version 15-2 4 =ax Ir NEEDED , a. .{ _ : `Rv i / \ n ' E+En ., IVInc VSE Noy POPP FR.EV rau. \ , a ,4 ty C I � \\ i / i 4.n NUN I H h 1 11. \ .. N�..LL Nova I I i, \. ✓ : , . - E s.,, ,.N i ,o m.aEK. E rHr �_ I I rwaor. .... CMOS JNICOVCPOTT NeNC MAT DAMAGE o - _PAVE � _ -71« I T . att Version 15-2. 5 � r 2 r„,„, 1. 1.> . .. Inflation blower mounted on the second bow just above the curve of the bow Jumper tube at peak at both ends Jumper tubes are not included with your greenhouse kit. They can be added after the poly is installed. It is recommended to first inflate the 2 layers of poly and see how the inflation is doing after about 1 month before ordering them if necessary. Version 15-2 6 4 ?' . a , # 4147'. J, ' I Try to keep poly on a clean surface when measuring and trimming aY areoroostor mow- _. • • O f,a A few small pieces of wire make it easy for installation Version 15-2 7 h i i r'i iii ' ' : . - I - When installing poly on the ends, put in few pieces of wire lock to get the plastic straight and relatively wrinkle free. �.� ". If there are any sharp edges, use a little bit of duct tape Version 15-2 8 i.441M/1.10/11111 ,s i Wire lock on end walls goes around all equipment and along vertical framing Wires being "wiggled" into place, not "snapped" Tennis ball inside the poly attached with rope Version 15-2 9 Do not pull poly tight, let it drape over greenhouse and install wires. Make sure it is as straight as possible. Cut an "X" after the first layer is put on in the inflation bracket hole Version 15-2 10 SIS,4* area _— i t: : -'th If you have a vent, install the larger poly first, then open the vent and do the small poly Second layer of poly being pulled over the greenhouse Version 15-2 • 1 Installing Roll-Up Sides Helpful Hints: • All wood screws are stainless steel to ensure long life if exposed to chemically treated wood • Poly for roll up sides goes on when you cover the entire greenhouse. The poly for the roll up sides and roof is one continuous piece of poly that drapes down to the lower edge of each baseboard before it gets attached to the roller bar. • Attach poly only after wire lock base is installed on upper baseboard • After completion of installing poly on greenhouse, you then insert rope hooks into wire lock base and install roping. See Step 3 and Step 7. • A RGSTHK ('T" handle kit) or RGSGB (gear box kit) is included as an option with roll up sides • You will install wire lock between the top and bottom of the roll up sides on the end bows so that you can temporarily seal up the four corners in the winter months • Before installation, it is recommended that you install at least a 2" x 8" lower baseboard or larger. This will provide an easier installation. • If you have a Rolling Thunder,you will use double wire lock for the baseboard. The extra poly left over after covering the greenhouse will be used as a "skirt" along the perimeter of the greenhouse. • If you have a "High Tunnel", the upper baseboard or double wire lock can be installed around the 6 ft. height or just below where the curve begins on the bow. Version 13-1 2 Step #1A-For installing single wire lock on a hip board at the top of the roll-up sides. Go to Step#1B if you have purchased double wire lock for your roll-up sides Attach 2"x 6" upper baseboard onto the greenhouse using 2 hole pipe straps, 1%."woodmate screws and 3;" self drilling-self tapping tek screws. Note—if you have a "high tunnel" or greenhouse with extended ground posts,the height of the baseboard can be raised to allow a greater opening for the roll up sides. The baseboard should remain on the straight part of the bow and should not be located on the curve. BEFORE YOU BEGIN I IS RECOMENIED THAT YOU USE AT I FEST A 2'X S"LOWER BASEBOARD OR LARGER.THIS FROYMES FOR AN EASIER INSTALLATION, STEW MOUNT 2"X 4' UPPER BASEBOARD ONTO GREENHOUSE USING 2 HOLE PIPE MAPS.I In^WOODMATE SCREWS AND 3N"TER SCREWS- ENIUQW 2"X6"UPPER BASEBOARD -WHTELOCK BASE STOPS HERE. TRW IS NO NEED TO TRANSITION A PIECE OE WHEELOCK ON THE BOARD. /- TOP OF BASE BOARD 1 0 -ATTACH WIRELOCK TO WILL 1E". WILL SSEALWWOL L UUPGS( SIDES %' IN WINTER WHEN NOT DUSE __ ___: I GROUND LEVEL LOWER BASEBOARD INSERT 3H^TER SCREW THROUGH PIPE STRAP INTO BOW --BOW ONEVERY Bow - BASE Bonn POW FROM INSJRF OF MOENRpUSF ti MU x l In" WOODMATE SCREWS Version 13-1 3 if you are in an excessively windy area,you may need to purchase a second set of 2-hole pipe straps and hardware to double up on holding the upper baseboard to the greenhouse. Version 13-1 4 Step #1B—For installing double wire lock without a wood hipboard at the top of the roll-up sides Attach double wire lock using 2 hole pipe straps, ''/." x 1" hex head bolts, X" nuts and %"tek screws. Use the four pieces of sheet metal that look like a"T"to attach to the four corners as a way of attaching the double wire lock base to the end bows. , M+‘7'.y ',. Above shows the 4 corners with the T Plate installation. The tek screws are removed when the end wall wire lock is attached to the end bows. Version 13-1 5 IIIlk ♦ r'sC7; Double wire lock attached with hex head bolt& nut to 2-hole pipe strap Version 13-1 6 Iki , xis , .„.... ..„ ,/, ... _-,,, „. . . . - .• , .. This is a splice for the double wire lock of a �> f. If you splice on the bow, you can use the thole pipe strap, nuts and bolt for splicing. Version 13-1 7 Step 2: Install wire lock on upper baseboard if you do not have double wire lock. UPPER BASEBOARD l I \ 2NOODMATE CREN EVERY ER Y EVY C" LOWER BASEBOARD Version 13-1 8 it 4e4111*A4, Version 134 9 Step 3: Attach 5/15" x 5" eye bolts and nuts to lower baseboard. The eye bolt will be positioned so that the "eye" is as far away from the baseboard as possible. The roller bar will eventually rest on the bolt part of the eye bolt. Use a nut and washer on each side of the baseboard when attaching eye bolt. Refer to Steps 7 &8 for rope hooks and rope hook installation. STEP Al ATTACH 5/I6"X 3 VT EYE BOLTS AND NUTS TO LOWER BASEBOARD. THE EYEBOLT WILL BE POSITIONED SO THAT THE"EYE"IS AS FAR AWAY FROM THE BASEBOARD AS POSSIBLE. THE ROLLER BAR WILL EVENTUALLY REST ON THE BOLT PART OF THE EYE BOLT. REFER TO STEPS 7&8 FOR ROPE HOOK AND ROPE INSTALLATION. .MIDDLE BOW END BOW BASEBOARD 142'.VIEW S. EVERY 8' 5/16" WASHERS - - --- - - -EYE BOLTS ARE ATTACHED EVERY S ET ' NUTS ABOUT 2"ABOVE GROUND LEVEL Version 13-1 10 �*, 1 T s p A * ' vo 7 44 � 6 4 >�r k Version 134 11 Step 4: If you have wind panel kits, attach to the 4 corners using wire lock. h y - \ a" z I _ _ I .A (( ice' • u r 4 ... • Version 13-1 12 install polyethylene covering and secure with wire lock. STEP AS INSTALL POLYETHYLENE COVERING (4-6 MIL POLY;2 LAYERS) _ATTACH WIRELOCK WIRES Version 13-1 13 Step 5: Lay purlin pipe on eye bolts at lower baseboard. Purlin pipe should extend past greenhouse the following distances: • 12"for a T-handle kit • 3" for a gear box kit • 6" on the end where there is no T-handle or gear box kit 7-34 TEK SCREWS EYE BOLT Version 13-1 15 Step 6: Attach poly to roller bar with '/<" tek screws spaced every 12" through roll up curtain cap r—CURT\14 EXTRUSION INS IALLEU / WITH TEK SCREWS_ / � j / LEVCE 6 OF PIPE / EYE lila.TS'-''' AT END OF GREEHOLSE / ON EIO I H L NDS-, /JOE%SW EDGED PIPES TOGETHER 7 WITH(1p 3.4 TEK St RLWS 7 _/ � I` �_ P - N -F, 0.\:. .KWCS� II I STEEL PIPE- / aml raT ecxLw j / / Roll up curtain cap Version 13-1 16 Step 7: STEP N7 ATTACH ROPE HOOKS TO WIRE LOCK BASE USING(I)I Ur WOOD SCREW FIRST HOOK(ND ALL OTHERS)AIS AT END RE W APART YSECOND O DO NOT FDLST. TFRHIRD HAVE TO PRE-DRE,L WHEN INSTALLING SCREWS THROUGH WIRE LOCK BASE BOWS BOWS END BOW ... -WIGGLE WIRE u „r • _ ROPE HOOKS V' fJ mows) �.- TO NEXT HOOK ABN. KOLL BAR ' THE ROPE FOS'UP"INTO WIRE LOCK BASE(AND POLY) WHERE THE WIGGLE WIRE FIGS UP. EYE BOLTS Version 13-1 • 17 401111.11.116 00000000,0000. Version 13-1 18 Step 8: Attach rope to eye bolts and rope hooks in a vertical pattern on end bow and "W" pattern along rest of roll up sides. MIOOLE- BOWS ENI BOWS fl [WIGGLE WINE END OF GREES''HOUSE , =` ROPE HOOKS (ROPE I'Ve PATTERN) ROPE VARTICAL PATTERN E VE HOLTS Version 13-1 19 \\ Step 9: Install "T" handle kit or gear box kit. For installation of gear box kit, see specific directions from Advancing Alternatives which are located in the box with the kit For attachment of"T" handle, see illustration A. T handle is located at one end only. Illustration B shows how roll up sides are held in upright position with 72" roll up bar. The roll up bar has a 15/8" diameter that slips over the 13/8" diameter handle. Version 13-1 20 "T-HANDLE' (12"OF 1.3 U"TUBE) n L 11 � 1 ILLUSTRATION B AP, 1--ROLLLR RAR ILLUSTRATION A GREENHOUSE ' LARGER PIPE INSERTS INTO HANDLE AND EDGES AGAINST GROUND TO HOLD CURTAIN GROUND IN OPEN POSITION i Version 13-1 21 ilifil `' __ �iP fr V V Version 13-1 22 .fi z Version 13-1 23 X 3/4 Si 4 k ? •it Version 13 24 V t" O rwM r Version 13-1 25 Step 10: Install roll bar deflectors on lower baseboard. Space evenly with the amount that was shipped with your greenhouse. [1)11:2"WOOD SCREW THROUGH BACKSIDE OF DEFLECTORS I 1 11 p 11; ROI.LER BAR DEFLECTOR 'USED 10 DEFLECT ROLL BAR AWAY FROM BOWS TO ALLOW BAR TO DROP DOWN IN FRONT OF BASEBOARD FOR A BETTER SS TND SEA . Version 13-1 1 Installing Wire Lock Tips: • Wire lock is capable of holding one or more layers of material such as greenhouse poly, shade cloth or insect screening • Extra thick applications of materials may require using two sets of wire in an overlapping staggered pattern • When installing wire lock on end bows with polycarbonate ends, install wire lock after polycarbonate has been installed • If you have roll-up sides,see the directions, "Installing Roll-Up Sides"for installation of wire lock along the sides of your greenhouse. Single wire lock: • Install wire lock along lower baseboard with 1 'A"wood mate screws spaced every 12" apart • Cut last piece to fit Woodmate screw Version 13-1 z . • k4 Single wire lock base shown above and below The above photo is not wire lock. It is roll bar cap Version 13-1 3 w t Single wire lock shown with wire and plastic End wall wire lock: • End wall wire lock will bend around the bows • If your purlin is on top of the ridge connector, butt two pieces of wire lock up to each other at the peak. One piece will be from the peak down on the left side and the other piece will be from the peak down on the right side. There will be sharp edges and you will have to add some duct tape to protect the sharp edges from ripping the poly. • If the purlin is below the ridge connector, take one piece of wire lock, center it at the peak, and attach it to the end bows • Attach the end wall wire lock with Y." tek screws spaced every 12" • Cut final pieces to length near bottom of end bows Version 13-1 5 i11 ! . ;' r ' I 1 :11., ws" I IV w_ < Version 13-1 6 Poly ends with wire lock installation: • If installing poly on your end walls, use single wire lock on the end bows. Follow the previous instructions • Add single wire lock around openings such as doors and equipment • You may also have to use batten tape (a white %" wide plastic material)to enhance holding power of poly to frame work • If using AAENDWALL, it needs to be flipped around for the poly ends so the lip/overhang is inside of the greenhouse • Notice that there are extra strips of wire lock to hold plastic to end walls Version 13-1 . 7 mop NW . r - . im H- Illr , . 1 G Screws are place 12" apart Version 13-1 8 i J r . 73.. r ' 4 \t mae Wire lock is capable of bending around bows b?♦ n The T Plate is used for the double wire lock along the sides. The screws are removed when the double wire lock is installed and the end wall wire lock needs to be fastened to the end bows Version 13-1 9 � y Wire lock is termintated at the ridge purlin if the the purlin is on top of the greenhouse. A small opening in the poly where air can escape is irrelevent. j ) - Nib 447. P End wall wire lock overlapping polycarbonate. Version 13-1