17D-072 (3) 20. Replace missing junction box covers and remove old wiring for water heater.
21. Install GFCI outlets in downstairs kitchen and bath.
22. Clean and service oil burner.
23. Test for presence of and have asbestos removed from ductwork.
24. Repair loose heat ducts at first floor registers.
25. Cap off oil line in basement and install oil safety valve.
26. Install a water heater.
27. Repair water damaged bathroom floor in first floor bathroom.
28. Allow wood floor s to dry out on first floor and evaluate as to the suitability for sanding
and refinishing.
29. Repair weak section of floor under second floor kitchen carpet.
30. Replace ceiling in right rear room of first floor
If you have any questions about this report please feel free to call.
Sincerely,
Phil Ahearn
Certified Member #113049
American Society of Home Inspectors®
Mass. Const. Sup. Lic.# 027255
17
Walls & Ceilings:
Type: Sheetrock and plaster walls, sheetrock, upsom board and fiberboard tile ceilings.
Condition-. Tiles are missing from ceiling in 1 st floor right rear room.
A determination as to the existence or type of wall insulation is not part of the
home building inspection. Evidence of insulation observed may be noted in the
inspection or report, but an actual verification of what is contained within enclosed
walls is, of course, impossible. Similarly, the inspection makes no determination as
to whether urea formaldehyde insulation is present or not.
Recommendation➢Replace ceiling in right rear room of first floor
Interior Trim:
Type: Sealed or painted wood.
Condition: Good general condition with some unfinished areas.
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS
To recap, areas that need attention at this time or will need maintenance in the future are:
1. Regrade next to bulkhead to prevent water entry.
2. Trim brush and shrubs.
3. Fill depressions in driveway.
4. Install gutters and downspouts.
5. Rebuild the top of the chimney.
6. Close off unused chimney opening where water heater was installed.
7. Repair and reputty windows
8. Replace front entry door.
9. Replace roof of rear porch. Determine if there is rot in rear porch 1 st floor ceiling and
replace support pipes with masonry piers.
10. Install joist hangers on deck joist in rear.
11. Install additional guard rails on rear deck.
12. Stain or seal deck.
13. Rebuild exterior stairs.
14. Remove the wood basement entry shed, make any necessary repairs or alterations to the
masonry and install a steel bulkhead door.
15. Basement moisture must be corrected to prevent rot to framing members.
16. Add additional support posts under carrying beams to limit deflection.
17. Resupport rotted left end of front carrying beam.
18. Repair rotted sill in front on the left side.
19. Have first floor main electrical panel fire inspected by licensed electrician and repaired.
16
GENERAL INTERIOR
Non-inspection concerns
The inspection does not include any evaluation of the cosmetic appearance of the
home; space considerations; the homes layout, design and closet space; the
cleanliness of the home; the quality or appearance of the bathroom and kitchen areas
and components beyond a determination of functionality. These concerns may be
important but they are a matter of taste, standards, and budget - and normally they
are reflected in the price of the home.
Kitchen:
Both kitchens have sinks which could not be evaluated because of the lack of water.
No other appliances were present.
Bath #1:
Location: First floor.
The bathroom had a sink, a toilet and a stall shower wit a single lever Delta shower
valve. None of the bathroom fixtures could be evaluated because of the lack of
water.
Bath #2:
Location: Second floor.
The bathroom had a sink, a toilet and a 4 piece fiberglass tub unit. Non of these
could be evaluated.
Floors: '
The bathroom floor on the first floor has water damage near the shower and needs
repairs.
The wood floors on the first floor are cupped badly as the result of the excessive
moisture in the basement. It may not be possible to sand the floor smooth as too
much material might have to be taken off which will sand through the tongue.
Nothing should be attempted until the moisture problem is corrected and the
flooring has a chance to dry out completely.
There is a loose or weak section of floor in the 2nd floor kitchen area under the
carpeting. I could not determine what it was without removing the carpeting but
some type of repair will be necessary here.
Recommendation➢Repair water damaged bathroom floor in first floor bathroom.
Allow wood floor s to dry out on first floor and evaluate as to the suitability
for sanding and refinishing.
Repair weak section of floor under second floor kitchen carpet.
15
Ground fault 'interrupters' (GFCI's) are a safety device that can prevent serious
shocks and possible electrocution. The rationale for installing GFCI's is that
overcurrent devices (breakers and fuses) are not designed to protect people against
shocks: they only protect the wires against carrying a current beyond which they
were designed for. When working properly, GFCI's shut off the electric current to
the outlet when a very small amount of current 'escapes' from the system. (They do
this by'sensing' any imbalance between the hot and neutral wires). They are
especially important in wet locations and are mandated for pools and pool
equipment. The 1987 National Electric Code mandates GFCI's be installed to
protect 120 volt circuits in the following locations: pools and equipment; exterior
outlets, outlets in garages, bathrooms. for whirlpools, and on kitchen counters that
are within six feet of running water (disposals and refrigerators excluded); the 1990
code mandates GFCI's for at or below grade basement and crawl-space areas,
excluding those serving sump pumps, refrigerators, and freezers.
Please note: these (and other) code mandates are not applied retroactively, so
the lack of GFCI's is not rated as a "deficiency'. Most pre-1980 homes do not
have GFCI's unless installed as a retrofit measure.
Recommendation�Install GFCI outlets in downstairs kitchen and bath.
Outlets:
The home is equipped with both two pronged ungrounded outlets and three prong
grounded outlets.
A random sampling of three pronged outlets were tested for ground and for proper
polarity and all those tested were properly wired. Reversed polarity, where the hot
aqd neutral wires are reversed, is commonly found by inspectors especially where
homeowners have done the wiring themselves. Polarity reversal can cause certain
types of electrical machinery to malfunction and can lead to the housings of
appliances becoming energized. Repairs should be made by an electrician (unless
one is knowledgeable about electrical repairs and safety. This condition is not
typically difficult (for an electrician) to correct but it does involve tracing where on
the circuit the hot and neutral wires were reversed. Simply switching the hot and
neutral wires where polarity reversal is present will result in changing the polarity on
all of the outlets 'downstream' of the "corrected" outlet.
Smoke Detectors:
Fire safety is of paramount importance. An evaluation of smoke detectors is not a
part of this inspection. This must be done by the fire department before occupancy.
14
Waste Pipes:
Type: PVC plastic.
Condition:. Could not evaluate the functional condition, no water.
Gas pipes:
Type: Copper LP gas lines were not evaluated.
ELECTRICAL
Entrance wiring:
Electrical entrance is by an overhead line attached to the right side of the house.
The caulking is in good condition where the cable enters the house. Loose or
missing caulking can allow rainwater to follow the cable into the main panel and
cause deterioration of the panel and electrical short circuits.
The main entrance cable is aluminum.
Main panel:
There are two 100 amp 220 Volt panels, one for each apartment which are sufficient
for the typical needs of each apartment.
The first floor panel is located in the basement and is a fuse panel. There has been a
fire in this panel and it should be inspected and repaired by a licensed electrician.
The second floor panel is located in the living room of the second floor and it has a
main disconnect in the basement. The panels are grounded to the cold water line.
Recommendation);-Have first floor electrical panel fire inspected by licensed electrician and
repaired.
Wiring:
The distribution wiring is copper romex with some knob and tube visible. There are
open junction boxes in the basement and wiring that is hanging from the ceiling
where the water heater was. All junctions should be protected in boxes and all boxes
should have installed covers. Statistically, most fires start at junctions, and the
protective box is need to snuff out fires before they can spread to adjoining wood
members. Moreover, the probability of an electric shock is obviously greater when
a poorly made unprotected junction comes loose and is accidentally touched.
Recommendation);,Replace missing junction box covers and remove old wiring for water heater.
GFCI Outlets:
There are GFCI protected outlets in the upstairs kitchen and bath. No GFCI's in
downstairs apartment.
13
controls or boiler/furnace jackets or test many of the safety controls and accessory
equipment that may be present. Heat exchangers can not be fully viewed or tested.
Estimates of heating and cooling system life vary so widely that any predictive
measure is impossible. Heating and air conditioning systems, as with any complex
mechanical system, are prone to failure without prior warning and possibly well
within their expected life.
A few general guidelines on the expected minimum life of heating and air
conditioning equipment:
• Cast iron boilers - should have a normal life of from 30 to 50 years.
• Steel boilers - 30 years .
• Furnaces (hot air systems) - 25 years .
• Central air conditioning units and heat pumps - 12 to 15 years depending on usage.
Recommendation➢Clean and service oil burner.
➢ Test for presence of and have asbestos removed from ductwork.
➢ Repair loose heat ducts at first floor registers.
Fuel Tank:
Type: 275 Gallon tank in the basement.
Condition: There is an open oil line in the basement that was apparently hooked to an oil fired
hot water heater that is no longer in place. The tank does not have an oil safety
valve installed and this line is not capped off. There appears to be oil in the tank.
I have concerns that if the tank valve is opened either accidentally or through
vandalism there will be an oil spill in the basement.
The inspection does not determine the presence or condition of underground fuel
oil storage -tanks. Underground tanks represent a potential environmental hazard
due to the fact that a leaking tank may not be discovered until a substantial amount
of oil has seeped into the ground.
Recommendation➢Cap off oil line in basement and install oil safety valve.
Hot Water:
Type: No hot water heater in place. It appears that there was an oil fired unit that was
removed.
Recommendation➢Install a water heater.
Water Pipes:
Type: Copper
Condition: Water was turned off, could not evaluate.
12
The left end of the carrying beam closest to the front of the house is rotted where it
is connected to the foundation beam pocket. Someone tried to install a support post
here but it is no longer in contact with the beam. The other beam ends are subject to
rot as there is no space for air circulation around the beam in the foundation pocket.
There is sagging of the second floor joists evident.
There is a rotted section of sill in the front on the left side that should be replaced.
There may be additional rot behind the saturated insulation against the band joist.
As a structural inspection, the home/building inspection looks at the building to a
large extent on a performance basis with an emphasis on looking for water, insect,
or mechanical damage to the structural components and indications of structural
distress. Older homes typically show methods of framing and support that are not
utilized in modern construction. Although this is a generalization most framing
methods and structures that have withstood the test of time without distress and
show no grounds on which to anticipate failure, will be rated as functional'or
'acceptable'by the home inspection. An inspection done using engineering or code
criteria, however, may indicate that the framing methods or structural members are
'inadequate'or in need of reinforcement.
Recommendation➢Add additional support posts under carrying beams to limit deflection.
➢ Resupport rotted left end of front carrying beam.
➢ Repair rotted sill in front on the left side.
MECHANICAL
Heating System:
Type: Oil fired forced hot air.
Condition: The furnace functioned properly for a very short period of time on the little bit of oil
that was left in the pump and line. The burner was smoky and should be cleaned.
The combustion chamber, burners and heat exchanger were visually inspected and
those areas that were visible were in good condition.
There is what appears to be a small amount of asbestos on some of the ductwork.
Some of the ductwork is poorly attached to the first floor registers.
The inspection of heating systems, consists of verifying that the system will operate
through the use of normal thermostatic controls, checking for the presence of
critical safety components, checking the distribution components, and looking for
detectable types of failure modes. The inspector cannot, however: remove the
burners to examine the combustion chamber or interior surfaces; disassemble
11
It is possible to destroy an otherwise sound home by maintaining excessive moisture
levels in the home during the colder months of the year. Moisture in the household
air will condense out on the windows or wall cavities. If vapor barriers were
improperly installed (not subject to inspection) excessive condensations can produce
rot damage in wall and ceiling cavities and on structural components of the home.
Homes most at risk are those located in more northerly areas due to larger
temperature differential between the exterior and the interior and the greater risk of
condensation occurring in the walls. Homes in areas with moderate winter
temperatures are less prone to serious wall or attic condensation problems.
Interestingly, older homes are not as likely to have moisture-related problems -
possibly due to the fact they have board sheathings that allow the walls to 'breathe'.
The use of plywood sheathings combined modern construction practices
emphasizing tighter construction has greatly contributed to moisture related
problems. The following practices can lead to excessive and possibly damaging
moisture levels in a home:
• use of humidifiers particularly in newer construction.
• venting a dryer into a basement or living space
• failing to vent bathroom exhaust fans to the exterior
• failure to provide (or use) exhaust ventilation for bathrooms and kitchens, etc.
• not dealing with basement or crawl-space dampness.
It is important to correct all of these conditions and often limit (or eliminate) humidifier usage.
Recommendation);;-Basement moisture must be corrected to prevent rot to framing members.
STRUCTURE
Framing:
Support posts: Steel posts
Carrying beam: 5 x 7 with 11'6" span in one area.
Floor joists: 2 x 8 with 8 ft. spans
Walls: 2 x 4
Rafters: 2 x 6
There are three sets of carrying beams. All three beams are exhibiting deflection
because of the excessive spans in some areas. Additional support posts should be
installed to limit deflection by shortening the length of the carrying beam spans.
A decision would have to be made as to whether it would be best to jack up the
beams to try and level the first floor, which would probably cause considerable
cracking of the second floor walls and ceilings which have been replaced and have
been shimmed to compensate for some of the sagging caused by the carrying beam
deflection, or whether it would be best to just stabilize everything where it is.
10
indicated the presence of wood boring insects in any accessible inspected areas of
the residence.
BASEMENT
Foundation Walls:
Type: Stone.
Condition: Good.
Crawlspaces:
Location: None.
Basement Floor:
Type: Poured concrete
Condition: Good.
Basement Windows:
Type: Wood windows are blocked off with plywood.
Bulkheads:
Type: Wooden shed type bulkhead entryway.
Condition: The shed structure is in poor condition and is pulled away from the building. This
should be removed. I could not evaluate the interior of the bulkhead because I
could not gain access either from the basement or from outside.
Recommendation);;-Remove the wood basement entry shed, make any necessary repairs or
alterations to the masonry and install a steel bulkhead.
Basement Insulation:
Type: Fiberglass insulation stuffed into band joist area in some locations but mostly
uninsulated.
Basement Moisture:
There is water dripping from all the framing members, floor sheathing and from all
surfaces such as the fuel tank and furnace. The moisture level is extremely high. It
appears that water has been running into the basement from the bulkhead area and is
probably seeping through the foundation from a lack of gutters. This moisture is
condensing on all surfaces in the basement.
If this is allowed to continue it will destroy the framing and sheathing members in a
fairly short period of time. I could not get an accurate moisture reading of the wood
members because they were so wet but I am sure it is well above the 20% level that
will allow fungi in the wood to activate and cause rot.
9
Decks:
Type: Pressure treated wood deck in rear.
Condition:. Metal joist hangers should be installed on the rear of the joists. Face nailing is not
an adequate attachment.
The space between the guards rails is excessive. Install additional guard rails.
Be sure that any wood that will be wet or in ground contact is pressure treated.
Pressure treated wood is treated with arsenic salts as a preservative. Arsenic salts
are both an insecticide and a fungicide. Insects and fungus are the two main causes
of wood destruction and if both of these can be held in check, wood has an
extremely long life. The key to preservatives is penetration Only areas of wood that
are penetrated by the chemicals are protected. The only way to attain any
worthwhile degree of penetration is under pressure. This must be done
commercially as surface applications will not protect the wood.
I recommend that you stain pressure treated wood with Penetrating oil stain after it
has been exposed to the weather for 6 months to a year. Do not use latex stain for
decks as it won't stand up to foot traffic. Most pressure treated wood is Southern
yellow pine which is a very penetrable wood and this makes it ideal for pressure
treating but this species of wood also tends to cup, curl and split when exposed to
moisture. Unprotected pressure treated wood is subject to cupping and warping as
the result of the upper surface going through constant wetting and drying cycles
while the underside remains dry. No other protection is required for pressure
treated wood and it can be in direct ground contact with no adverse affects. It
should be noted that the decks will be very slippery for a few days after staining so
be cautious when walking. Staining should be done in warm weather and should not
be done below 55 degrees.
Recommendation➢Install joist hangers on deck joist in rear.
➢ Install additional guard rails on rear deck.
➢ Stain or seal deck.
Entryways & Steps:
Type: Wood steps in front, pressure treated stairs in the rear.
Condition: The exterior stairway risers are too high(9 inches).
Space between rear stairs guardrails is too wide.
Recommendation➢Rebuild exterior stairs.
WOOD BORING INSECTS
This is not a termite inspection. A separate termite inspection should be done by a
licensed pesticide applicator.
A visual inspection of accessible areas was made for wood boring insects and
carpenter ants. During the course of my inspection no major visible evidence
8
• in general, blown-in insulation ( and especially cellulose), where it is possible to install it,
provides better coverage than fiberglass batts. Where fiberglass is present, having blown-in
insulation installed over the fiberglass is very often desirable.
EXTERIOR
Siding & Trim:
Type: Asbestos shingles.
Condition: Good.
Windows:
Type: Single pane double hung windows with aluminum storm panels.
Condition: No locks on most of the windows. Cracked glass on some windows. Several
windows are painted shut or are difficult to open. Windows are spot-checked for
operation. No recommendation on replacing widows is typically made as all but the
most severely deteriorated windows are salvageable. Virtually all older windows and
especially double hung windows show a degree of looseness. Putty loss is common
if not typical. The need to re-putty windows is a normal maintenance measure that
typically 'comes with' homes over 25 years old.
Recommendation➢Repair and reputty windows
Exterior Doors:
Type: Wood doors with aluminum storm doors.
Condition: The front door has been broken into and the door is damaged.
Recommendation➢Replace front entry door.
Porches:
Type: Open wood porches front and rear.
Condition: The lower portion of the front porch needs replacement. The roof structure is
adequate.
The second floor roof structure of the rear porch is in poor condition and needs
replacement.
There is deflection of the header above the 1 st floor section of the rear porch and it
appears that there has been water entry into this area. It is likely that there is some
rot in the framing of the first floor ceiling. The iron pipe supports for the rear porch
are not adequate for a two story porch and should be replaced with masonry piers or
poured sonotube columns and pressure treated wood posts.
Recommendation➢Replace roof of rear porch. Determine if there is rot in rear porch 1 st floor
ceiling and repair and replace support pipes with masonry piers.
7
and 1 square foot of vent area should be provided for every 150 square feet of attic
floor area without a vapor barrier.
Ventilation of attic spaces can be provided by several types of vents.
The optimal ventilation system is provided by soffit vents and baffled ridge vents,
gable vent or sloped roof vents, in equal balance, with unobstructed flow of air from
the soffit to the ridge.
Proper ventilation is very important for energy efficiency. Damp insulation has
almost no insulation value. A well ventilated attic prevents moisture from
accumulating in the insulation and allows it to perform at its maximum value. It
also helps to prevent moisture damage to the roof framing and sheathing , prolongs
roof life and helps to prevent ice dams. Ice dams occur when the attic warms
enough to melt the underside of the snow, causing a flow of water that then freezes
again once it gets over the cold soffit. The resulting dam causes a puddle to
form that sometimes is deep enough to flow water up under shingles. Ice dams are
common in poorly ventilated roof systems. They are especially common if there
is heating-system ductwork in the attic. Ice dams usually can be prevented by
proper insulation and ventilation (to exhaust heat before it can melt the snow).
Moisture & Mildew:
No moisture related problems noted. No mildew on sheathing or framing members.
Attic Insulation:
Type: Blown cellulose
Amount: 6 inches (approx.)
Condition: Attic insulation levels are lower than today's standards but are good overall with
even coverage.
As - or perhaps more- important than insulation levels is the insulation coverage
Insulation that is loose- fitting, compressed, or that is improperly placed may
provide a fraction of the actual R-value it is supposed to provide, in some cases,
insulation can be so poorly installed it provides no value whatsoever.
The following should be noted:
• the amount of attic insulation that is optimal, or cost-effective, to have present in most areas
of the country- and especially in more northerly regions such as this area is R-38. This is
equivalent to either 10 to 12 inches of insulation.
• while the optimal amount of insulation may be R-38, it may not always be cost effective to
increase the levels above R-19 (six inches), especially if the costs of fuel are 'reasonable' or
if the cost of installing more insulation is high. Installations done for a reasonable cost - or
where the fuel costs are high - will have a quicker payback. Also, it is not always possible to
achieve 'optimal' insulation levels in older homes or in homes where the attic is used as a
storage space.
• fiberglass batt or other insulation's with gaps along the sides or between sections does not
provide optimal value. Gaps have an effect out of proportion to their area. A six percent
gap (typical with fiberglass installations) will decrease the effective R-value by 33 percent.
6
Gutters should be cleaned regularly in late fall and/or early spring to prevent
blockage from pine needles and leaves.
Recommendation➢Install gutters and downspouts.
Skylights:
Type: None.
CHIMNEY & FIREPLACE
Chimney:
Type: Single flue unlined brick chimney
Condition: The upper portion of the chimney, above the roof, needs to be rebuilt. the bricks
are loose and much of the mortar is missing.
There is an opening where an oil fired water heater entered the chimney. Unused
chimney openings should be tightly closed. Air leaking around the opening could
reduce the chimney draft enough to produce exhaust gas entry into the home. This
repair must be made before the heating system is used as it represents a fire and
safety hazard.
The inspection of chimneys is confined to viewing the overall structure visible from
the exterior, and limited portions of the interiors from fireplaces.
Recommendation➢Rebuild the top of the chimney.
�;- Close off unused chimney opening where water heater was installed.
Fireplace:
Type: None.
Wood stove:
Type: None.
ATTIC
Access to the attic is by a hatchway in the upstairs kitchen.
Ventilation:
Type: There are soffit vents around the perimeter of the hip roof and sloped roof vents on
the upper portion of the roofs.
Condition: Ventilation is adequate.
The Massachusetts State Building Code requires that 1 square foot of vent area
should be provided for every 300 square feet of attic floor area with a vapor barrier
5
ROOF SYSTEMS
Roof surfaces:
The roof was inspected by climbing onto it with a ladder and walking the roof
surface.
Type: Three tab asphalt shingles on the main roof, roll roofing on the rear porch roof.
Layers: Two.
Condition: The roof shingles are cupping in some areas but still have flexibility and do not
appear to need replacement at this time. No leaks were evident in the attic area.
The normal life expectancy of a standard asphalt roof is 20 years, with 25 years
being about the maximum one could expect before leaks begin to occur. A number
of factors can influence this including weather, interior moisture and temperature.
Heat and moisture build up in the attic, can greatly reduce the life-span of asphalt
shingles, therefore, proper ventilation is very important. Most building codes,
including the Massachusetts State Building Code, limit the number of layers of
asphalt shingles allowed. Although the Massachusetts code allows two layers of
shingle to be applied over the original "existing asphalt shingle roof', in practice the
roof is generally stripped to the bare wood after the second layer has worn out. The
reason for this is the weight of the shingles. Each layer weighs approximately 2.5
lbs. per square foot. On an average roof this could amount to several thousand
pounds per layer. Too many layers would exceed the load carrying ability of the
rafters.
The roll roofing over the rear porch roof is in poor condition but the entire rear
porch roof structure needs replacement.
Gutters & downspouts:
Type: There are no gutters on the house.
Condition: There are washed out areas around the foundation and considerable moisture in the
basement that can at least partly be attributed to the lack of gutters.
The importance of gutters cannot be over emphasized. A great deal of damage can
be caused by the absence of gutters. Rainwater dripping from the roof tends to
splash up against the foundation and siding, often to a height of three or four feet.
With brick foundations, the water penetrates the mortar joints. In cold weather, as
this water freezes, the ice crystals expand and force the mortar from the joints
causing the foundation to deteriorate. With wood siding, the lower sections of
siding are constantly damp and this leads to the activation of wood destroying
fungus and attracts termites and carpenter ants. In addition to these problems,
many, if not most, water leaks in basements are caused by a lack of gutters. Runoff
from the roof washes out dirt next to the foundation and creates depressions that
allow standing water to accumulate. This water will soak into the ground, and
follow the foundation wall to the footing, or the nearest crack, where it can seep
into the basement. It is also important that downspouts discharge away from the
foundation.
4
There is a summary of recommendations on the last page of this report.
All directions are from the driveway, facing the front door, unless otherwise indicated.
GENERAL EXTERIOR
Grading:
The lot slopes away from the house. Overall surface drainage is adequate but there
is a large hole which is funneling water into the basement by the bulkhead entryway
on the left side. Repair the bulkhead masonry work and regrade this area to direct
water away from the foundation.
Proper grading is important to keep water away from the foundation. Soil should
slope away from the building to prevent problems caused by excess water. Gutter
discharge should be directed away from the foundation for the same reason.
Recommendation�Regrade next to bulkhead to prevent water entry.
Retaining Walls:
Type: None.
Vegetation: '
Considerable amount of overgrown brush, etc. near the house should be trimmed
back.
Shrubbery should be kept trimmed back away from the siding to prevent moisture
damage.
Recommendation➢Trim brush and shrubs.
Driveway:
Type: Gravel.
Condition: Good general condition with a few minor washed out areas needing to be filled.
Recommendation➢Fill depressions in driveway.
3
The Following report details my findings at 39 Verona Street,
Northampton, MA 01060
The following report should not be construed by you as any form of
written or implied warranty/guarantee against any HIDDEN OR
LATENT defects which may have been in existence at the time of the
inspection, but which may not have been CLEARLY VISIBLE,
EASILY ACCESSIBLE OR DETECTABLE at that time.
This report and survey is GENERAL IN NATURE AND SCOPE and
is not meant to be an in depth all encompassing inspection. It is chiefly
concerned only with the visible and accessible MAJOR
STRUCTURAL AND ELECTRO MECHANICAL SYSTEMS.
Reference to minor details is done only as a courtesy.
This GENERAL SURVEY deals only with conditions that were clearly
visible and easily accessible at the time and date of the inspection.
Absolutely NO WARRANTIES AND OR GUARANTEES ARE
GIVEN OR IMPLIED against any and all FUTURE DEFECTS/
DEFICIENCIES OR PROBLEMS occurring after the inspection
date.
I
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS including asbestos, lead
pamt/pipes/solder, radon, urea formaldehyde, toxic wastes, polluted
water, any and all contaminants-pollutants and hazardous material is not
part of survey/*inspection. Consult with testing labs for each testing..
AUXILIARY SYSTEMS such as Alarm, Solar, Private water, Private
sewer, Security, Sprinkler, Elevator, Intercom, Central vacuum,
Swimming pools, Space heaters, Air conditioning Appliances, or any
system not considered part of the MAJOR BUILDING SYSTEMS are
not a part of this inspection process. In addition, no inspection for
household insects or rodents is done.
This is not a code enforcement inspection, and is only based on the
inspectors opinions.
2
7�
Ahearn Inspection Services
144 Federal Street
Northampton, MA 01060
Phone &Fax
r (413) 586-8730 Certified Member
1-800-499-8730 #113049
Inspection Report
Client/s Name: City of Northampton
Address: Office of Planning and Development
210 Main Street
Northampton, MA 01060
Building location: 39 Verona Street
Northampton, MA 01060
Inspection Date: May 24, 1996
Inspector: Phil Ahearn
Weather: Sunny & mild
Temperature: 75 Degrees
Time: 11:30 AM
NOTE: THIS IS A CONFIDENTIAL REPORT FOR THE EXCLUSIVE USE
OF THE CLIENT LISTED ABOVE.
If you have any questions regarding this report or the inspection, please feel
free to call me at (413) 586-8730 or 1-800-499-8730 for clarification.