CLOCK MAINTENANCE--clockoperatinginstructionsMaintenance of the M.A. Green Seth Thomas street clock, Waterbury, Connecticut.
WINDING: When winding the clock, approximately once per week, be careful not too draw the weight up too high. Stop it a couple of inches before the pulleys meet. The winder can observe
this with a flashlight if it is too dark in the base. Do wind it up to nearly the top, no need to stop several inches below.
REGULATING: To regulate the clock, there are two approaches. It has a gross adjustment, which is a hand nut at the very bottom of the pendulum assembly. To adjust this, first loosen
the ¼” square head machine screw at the front of the upper part of the iron pendulum bob. Screw up the adjusting nut to make the clock gain time, lower it to slow it down. One turn
or so at a time is all it takes, until it is dialed in. After each adjustment,, tighten the ¼” head machine screw again, making sure that the lozenge shaped pendulum bob is still square
with the case- it can rotate slightly on the pendulum rod. (I have already done this gross adjustment during the test running period in my shop during the restoration period, so it
shouldn’t be necessary.)
Regulating the clock- fine adjustment. There is a cast iron bar that spans the tops of the clock movement plates. At the top front of this bar, just inside the case door, is a round
knurled brass adjusting knob. Look just below it, and you’ll see the suspension spring, supporting the pendulum assembly. On either side of that spring there is a small brass block.
Together, they embrace the suspension spring. They are held tight against it by a pair of small machine screws, left and right. Slightly loosen these screws (this should be done with
the clock stopped). Now reach up a bit to the knurled brass regulating knob. Using this, maybe one turn at a time, raise or lower the pendulum assembly slightly, up for faster, down
for slower. Tighten the two machine screws embracing the brass blocks just below (not too tight, but snug). Watch the time over a few days, note which way it is trending, and adjust
as needed. Using that upper adjustment knob, the clock can be made quite accurate. However, it will no doubt gain or loose a little as the seasons change, etc., so it is important
to reset the clock every wind or two.
CLOCK WINDER: I strongly suggest that one person, who is fluent with the basic operation of the clock, be assigned to wind and regulate it. A second person should be shown the ropes,
to back up the primary winder. There are many competent clock collectors around the Waterbury area, and perhaps one of them can be talked into volunteering to be the backup winder.
SETTING THE HANDS: This is a very simple, but important operation, and it must be done correctly, as serious damage can result even with a moment of inattention. Just below the crossbar
on top of the movement, mentioned above, is the verge arbor, verge (the part that goes back and forth to push the pendulum), and the escape wheel, whose teeth are spanned by the verge.
At the very top of the verge, there is a knurled steel hand nut. While holding the escape wheel with one hand so it can’t turn, at all, back the knurled head machine screw up out of
the top of the verge a bit- it sits in a little depression in the top of the verge arbor to keep it all concentric, and has to go back there when the screw is tightened down again.
Once the screw is backed out, the verge assembly can be easily pushed back off the verge arbor, until the verge pallets are WELL CLEAR of the escape wheel teeth. I can’t stress that
part enough. Serious damage can, and has, occurred when the escape wheel is allowed to spin while the verge pallets can contact it. It acts as a little lathe, and damages the sharp,
straight, teeth on the escape wheel. The hands of the clock can now be advanced, by letting the escape wheel run forward, always controlling the rate with your hand. It can be allowed
to advance at a fairly rapid rate, but under no circumstances should it be allowed to run free. When the correct time is reached, stop the escape wheel, carefully pull the verge back
towards the front of the clock, and screw down the retaining screw, making sure it is properly seated in its little depression in the arbor. You can actually feel it, and after a time
or two it becomes second nature. Again, don’t over-torque the screw, just snug it down firmly enough that there is no chance of it coming loose, which could cause serious damage.
Another, simpler, and safer way to set the clock is to simply stop it, wind it, and wait for the time shown on the dial to match the actual time. This is not to say there is anything
difficult about letting the clock run in fast-forward, as described above.
Lubrication: The clock movement should be lightly lubricated about every six months, and certainly once a year, at minimum. This should be done by an experienced clock person (me or
someone else familiar with the type). A touch our oil goes on each verge pallet face, and a few drops on each pivot. IN NO CASE should any oil or grease of any kind be applied to the
gears or gear teeth. This just serves to attract and accumulate dust and grit, greatly accelerating the wear that will inevitably occur. Too much oil is as bad or worse not enough.
Feel free to call me any time that you have a question! Thank you.
Old School Antiques
Antique Clock Restoration
FNAWCC #25131 Since 1970
_____________________________________________________________
Peter A. Nunes
4 Hopkins Lane, Peace Dale, Rhode Island 02879
~ 401-742-2112 ~